Manuel Antonio!

We have been recommended by Ticos and foreign tourists alike to visit Manuel Antonio National Park. Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is a small National Park in the Centeral Pacific Conservation Area located on the Pacific, just south of the city of Quepos, and 132 km (82 m) from the national capital of San Jose. Established in 1972 with an area enumerating 4,014 acres (the smallest of all national parks in Costa Rica), it is the destination of as many as 150,000 visitors annually and well-known for its beautiful beaches and hiking trails.

So, off Giles and I went from San Jose to Manuel Antonio on the 12:15 bus, tickets costing about $4. We were lucky enough for one of the only times in CR to take a directo bus, which was more or less direct without stops on the highway to pick-up or drop off, anyone! We passed the cute beach town of Quepos and rode up the mountain to Manuel Antonio, the rain was now starting. We passed our hotel, so got dropped off about a mile away and decided to take a cab back to our hotel, Hotel Plinio. I would confess that the taxi driver ripped us off, charging us 2,000 colones for the ride, but we were able to haggle him down to 1,500 colones. The hotel and Manuel Antonio itself seemed pretty touristy which may have added to the inflation of our cab ride. It was after 3:00 when we got to the hotel, but decided that an early dinner was the first order of business. The restaurant in the hotel, like many restaurants in Manuel Antonio, had a Tex-Mex sort of menu. We ordered classic margaritas which were on special, split nachos with guacamole, and split a red bean enchilada with Mexican rice and what tasted like turkey gravy atop.

After dinner we checked into our room, which only had one bed. So, after a quick visit to the concierge we opened the door to our temporary lodging, a two story loft. It was definitely rustic, but far exceeded my expectations. We flipped a coin to see who got the king side bed in the private loft upstairs. Excitedly, I won. So, we unpacked some our things in our two night get-away bags. Then we sat on the deck outside that overlooked the street and foliage. I wanted a café con leche, so we decided to go back downstairs to the restaurant, where we were enticed by the helado frito (fried ice cream) on the menu and washed that down with our coffee. After too filling desserts we read, wrote, and talked for a bit… usually about Costa Rica. But, we need our next day was going to be early and could be a tiring hike so went to bed shortly after.

The next morning we woke up early and were out of our hotel room by 8:00-30. We walked down the hill to Quepos to have some breakfast before our adventure. At a restaurant close to the bus stop, we had breakfast at a little place that looked like a pizza shop, but, was also open for breakfast. We both ordered café con leches and gallo pint with scrambled eggs (huevos revueltos) and toast. There was a lot of gallo pinto which we like to label as a “sustainable” breakfast. We both cleaned our entire plates and headed to the bus with about ten minutes to spare. It was already hot and humid. I have noticed that the humidity is more rampant near the beaches than in the remainder of CR. The bus ride was only about 15 minutes and had many foreigners from the U.S., France, and Germany on it, so, you knew it was the right one!

We were left off in the center of Manuel Antonio which had many souvenir shops and restaurants aligned facing the beach. We followed some other tourists for a few streets to the park entrance. Like most of my park experiences here, I thought they would take credit card as payment for the entrance fee, but, this one did not allow this. The tour guide said it was because of the government. Whatever the case, it worked out in our favor. We only had 20,000 colones between us and with this we were able to get a guided tour, typically costing 20,000 colones per person, but since we had no other cash on us we were secretively allowed to join a group with a tour. Before our entering the park, a guide set-up a telescope with its lens facing above the lodge in a tree pointing to a sloth. It was a three-toed sloth hanging upside-down from the tree eating leaves. You could hardly tell that there was a sloth with the naked eye, even though he was only about 50 feet away! This was a promising sight, since I had been having trouble seeing sloths before this point.

We handed in our tickets to a guide at the entrance of the gate and joined a tour with about 8 more people. He immediately set-up his telescope and showed us howler monkeys in the treetops. He didn’t spend too much time emphasizing the monos (monkeys) because he said we would have a better chance to see them later. As we kept walking he stopped to the shrubbery on sides of the path. He got a large leaf and tore the leaves from the stem. He used the stick to poke a very large leaf that had curled and become home to a tarantula. He told us that they aren’t deadly as long as you get the anti-venom. Then he also showed us a rainbow caterpillar on a branch through his telescope. 

Not long after, he parted the some branches and there was a three-toed sloth behind them. She was actually moving (as fast as a sloth can) down the tree to defecate. I had never seen one so close before nor had I seen one move. She was certainly in a hurry. He grabbed hold of the branches as a better footing down.  Apparently, they live their entire lives in the canopy only heading down a tree once a week for a bowl movement. No one is exactly sure why. One theory is that they help fertilize the plants. Another is they are just considerate little lazy bears. 

We then walked to some trees that were alive with monkeys! There were howler monkeys and their babies socializing in their tops. The guide was kind enough to position the telescope on one of the monkey’s private areas, making for a good laugh for the viewer’s unexpentancy. The path had lead to one of 4 beaches in Manuel Antonio- Manuel Antonio, Espadilla Sur, Teldoro, and Playita. With their large light sand berms, it is easy to see why they attract beach goers of all ages. Both Manuel Antonio and Espadilla Sur contain tidal pools and offer the possibility of snorkeling. The guide showed us some more animals before it became a beach day. He showed us three tiny bats, obviously sleeping in a tree since it was daytime. Also, we saw a rainbow boa constrictor looking much like knots in the tree and a caiman.

The tour was only about 1 hour and a half so with plenty of time for the rest for the rest of the day we played at the beach. The water was crystal clean except for some vegetation and rocks. Manuel Antonio, I think, can best be described of as where Costa Rican rainforest meets a magnificent beach. Emily immediately when we put our stuff on the beach. I, however, as recently typical, climbed out on some rocks in search of souvenir rocks and shells. I had a very childhood moment when I slipped on the rocks and skinned my knee, which was worth it for the gorgeous rocks and shells that I acquired! I then joined Emily on a swim past the breaker. There were many people sitting on the beach enjoying the gorgeous views, but there were also some scattered swimmers, some out pretty far. We stayed on the beach for a few hours listening to the foreign conversations, some indecipherable, until we thought we had reached our sun limitation.

We followed the path leading to the exit. We had to cross a little stream where you were immediately greeted and stalked by vendors selling coconuts and carefully painted vases. Of course, we purchased freshly cracked coconuts sold by a pipa-man who paid very close attention to detail. He served us pipa frios with intentional cut cracks on either side for bright pink hibiscus flowers. The pipa man also placed two hibiscus flowers behind each of our ears. I felt like a Chinese dragon, but, overall I was enthusiastic about his presentation and felt like such a tourist. But, the pip was especially refreshing after a small hike and beach bathing.



We walked into tents filled with souvenirs, immediately accompanied the vendors. But, we had no money so that was short-lived (at least, cash, anyway).  We initially planned to walk up the hill and treat ourselves to some dinner overlooking the beach. Parched at this point and lacking stamina, we chose a restaurant in Manuel Antonio. We ordered drinks made with Cacique guaro, lime juice, and brown sugar. Cacique Guaro is brand of guaro produced by Fábrica Nacional de Licores or "FANAL". The Cacique Guaro is a sugar cane liquor of high purity and is the best selling distilled spirit in Costa Rica. It's known as "Costa Rica liquor".  It was delicious and filled with brown sugar. I can only compare it to Brazilian’s infamous Caipirinha cocktail. We also ordered ceviche, which is especially revigorating in the humid climate. For a heartier portion, we split a tuna sandwich with fries. We should have know (a common sediment) that the fish would be overcooked and/or just not good. Emily has lost her appetite for meat since trying a few meat products from Costa Rica (like ham and burgers). And I, an (infamous) “pescetarian” am looking faith in the fish, at least here. The tuna sandwich was dry (as compared to the raw way I prefer it prepared) and tasted fishy. But, at least the drinks were great.

We finished off the night with some nightclub life in Quepos. We walked around the centro of the city and found not many people on the streets, but, in this little upstairs bar/club in the center of the city there were many tourists having a good time. Most all of the people there were not from Quepos or Costa Rica for that matter. Overall, I felt old at the bar everyone was clearly in their young 20s. However, it was nice to meet people from Canada, France, Argentina, etc.

The next morning we slept in until 11:00 AM, a serious rarity in CR. So, we found the concierge and checked out. We ran to the bank and the bus station to find out that the 12:00PM bus to San Jose had left. So, we just bought our tickets for the 2:00 PM bus. We walked by the ocean in Quepos to kill time and talk about experiences in CR which we often refer to as “The land of broken promises”. Now hungry, we walked into Dos Locos Mexican restaurant and looked at the menu which looked delicious. But, then we looked at the prices and decided that it was just too expensive. Back to the place we ate breakfast at, we decided to give lunch a try, having a good experience with desayuno. We ordered a margarita pizza. I thought I had asked for jalapeños on half.  We also had some mora en agua refrescos. The pizza was not very good, but I also have high Scrantonian (pizza capital of the world!) standards.

The bus ride home was not directo, taking about 5 hours instead of the 2 and ½ it initially took to get there. As I didn’t have any obligations for that day, it didn’t matter too much. Even though the bus takes sometimes an incredible amount of time, I do prefer it. It is a prefect way to see the country, city, and amazing landscapes that Costa Rica is privileged to have. 

Osa Peninsula!

After about ten hours of traveling I got home last night from the infamous Osa Peninsula. The Osa Peninsula (Península de Osa) is a peninsula located in southwestern Costa Rica, in the Puntarenas Province, on the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula was formed geologically by a faulting system that extends north into California. One of the most biologically intense places on earth, the Osa Peninsula is home to at least half of all species living in Costa Rica. Perfect, quintessential place to discover all the species of animals one thinks of when they envision the thought of Costa Rica!

So, early Thursday morning my journey commenced. I left Escazu at 5:30 AM to catch the bus into the Coca Cola of San Jose. From the Coca Cola I hopped in a cab and asked to go to Terminal Alfaro. The cab driver asked where I was going. I answered “Drake Bay”. He said that I didn’t want Terminal Alfaro, I wanted the Tracopa bus. All I could say was “Oh my God. Thank you so much” with my very best early morning Spanish. He was right. Costa Rica lacks website and correct information via inter-web which makes for a usually confused and impromptu traveling Gringa. I arrived to Tracopa which was close to where I work in San Pedro and bought my ticket. With some time to spare, it’s always a good idea to use the bathroom before departing on these long journeys which do not have bathrooms on the bus. So, I used the loo and after stepping out noticed the 200 colones (40 cents) charge. I was immediately confronted by an attendant to pay the charge. So, I did. The bus left a little after 7:00 AM and only had about 5 million stops along the way to Palmar Norte. We had about two restroom and refreshment breaks and countless stops along the highway to pick up people waiting and drop off people to their destinations. I arrived in Palmar Norte, a popular destination for many people riding such an early bus at about 1:00 PM. I could’ve waited for the bus from Palmar Norte to take me to Sierpe, but I didn’t want to miss the boat from Sierpe to Drake Bay. The last boats (according to the inconsistent interweb) left at 3:00 PM. Against my fragile intuition; I took a 20 minute cab ride from an aggressive taxi man for 20,000 colones which I haggled from 23,000 colones. On the ride, we talked about America. It’s always amazing to me how everyone in the world knows so much about the United States and it’s governance while I don’t have the slightest inkling who the president of Costa Rica is.

He dropped me off at the Las Vegas restaurant where boats take you to and from Sierpe to Drake Bay throughout certain times of the day. I had plenty of time to spare so I ordered some coffee, water, and ceviche- my favorite food of Costa Rica which is a pickled fish usually served with crackers or bread. This time it was served with patacones. Patacones are a side dish that is popular in many Latin American countries. The dish is made from sliced green (unripe) plantains which are cut either length-wise or width-wise and are twice fried. The slices of plantains are fried for 1-2 minutes on each side until they are golden in color and removed, then patted for excess oil. Afterwards, they are pounded flat with a utensil made for the task called a "tostonera," or any kitchen utensil that has a large enough flat surface. The plantains are then fried once again until they are crisp and golden brown. While waiting for the boat to take me to Drake Bay I befriended a local Sierpe boat guide, Oscar. His English was pretty good, but, he expressed that he wanted to learn more. Ticos who seek improvement on the English usually become quite infatuated with you when express that you are an English teacher. As we sat chatting about some English expressions, an American Crocodile (cocodrillo) emerged from the muddy waters. He snatched a fish and was chewing him head above water. Excellent- I didn’t reach my destination yet and I was already seeing some real nature in action! Oscar said they only have American Crocodiles and Caymans in the Osa Peninsula. American Crocs are bigger. As he claimed to be from Sierpe and a guide, I believe him and very interested in learning these kinds of things. Soon enough the rain was beginning and it was time to board my boat. I only had one other passenger in the Chincita. This man lived in Drake Bay and had with him two boxes covered in garbage bags. He suggested I take a garbage bag and use it as a poncho. At first, I was rather leery, considering that there was a cover over the boat and the rain wasn’t that hard. But, I took his advice thankfully. As soon as the boat started going the mist turned heavier. We left Sierpe through little canals that were full of trees that had roots above the water- very Amazonian! I took a great video as we slowly crept down these canals that lead the freshwater to the saltwater. I am not joking when I say at some points I couldn’t even open my eyes because with the rain and speed of the boat, the water felt like needles in my eyes. But, when I could open them I saw rocky shores, random rocks quite a distance from the shoreline, and an endless ocean meeting the leaking sky. After about an hour and a half travel by boat, I was dropped up at the shoreline of Drake Bay.

It was now about 5:00PM. I grabbed my luggage- one little backpack and an over the shoulder bag. Good thing I have learned to travel lightly! I was greeted by a local who helped me with my luggage and lead me up a steep muddy hill to Casa Horizontes, the bed and breakfast I had a reservation for ($20 per night including breakfast). It was a pretty intense and slippery incline to this haven. By American standards, this would not be acceptable. But, Casa Horizontes, thus, named had the most beautiful view of the entire bay enveloped by tropical trees, wildlife, and clouds. Yami was waiting for me on the porch/dining area with coffee and cookies which I gladly partook in. We talked for a few hours. She told me about her family and the reason for her b and b- She has a special needs son which requires the family to make some extra money. She learned that I am an English teacher and expressed interest in learning English better. I felt a genuine charisma about her. She was so warm and friendly that I right away took a liking to her. As is tradition in Costa Rica, I went to bed early.

The next morning I had breakfast around 8:00 AM. I had a beautifully arranged place setting with fresh tropical flowers perfectly placed in the center. Firstly, I dove into fresh café con leche which somehow tastes so much better here than in the U.S. Then, I had a plate of fresh fruits- pineapple, papaya, and mango. To top it all off home-made pancakes and scrambled eggs. I enjoyed my view almost as much as my breakfast. After breakfast, new guests arrived. They were a couple from Spain and had been traveling around a few other places in Costa Rica. After they were greeted with the same respect that I have been given we went horseback riding around Drake Bay. A local, I suspect, had three geared up horses waiting. The horses we all different colors with one similar aspect: a little scrawny. We adventured up and down dirt roads and through turquoise streams that soaked our feet. The three hour ride eventually led us back to the ocean where we reprieved our tired horses.

Later that afternoon, I decided to venture to the beach, look for rocks, and perhaps see a sunset. (I say perhaps, because it is a bay that is slightly curved inland so you might miss the sun setting by land masses of rock and earth.) I walked onto the rocks and watched massive waves explode and die. I was out there until high tide took all of the rocks with it. Then, I just sat on a safer part of the beach where I was approached by a local boy. He told me his mother works at a local hotel as a chef. And, he is not originally from Drake Bay, but Sierpe. He likes Drake Bay better because of the ocean. Then he asked me if I was “Casado”. I answered, “Si, Estoy Cansada.” I thought he was asking me if I was tired (cansado), but really he was asking me if I was married (casado). We had a good laugh about it. Oh, the mistakes I make in order to learn! I went back to Casa Horizonte, showered, and got ready for bed. The next day would be an early one. The next day held my entire reason for visiting Osa Peninsula.

I was up at about 5:30, perfect timing for sunrise. I had a breakfast and company joined me not much later. This morning we were going to Corcovado National park. The boat would leave from Drake Bay a little after 7:00 AM to get to the park by 8:30.  The boat ride was further southeast guided by the early morning sun.  The boat ride alone to get there was simply amazing. The coast of the Peninsula is simply gorgeous untouched natural beauty. As soon as the boat made it to shore a pair of Scarlet Macaws flew into the forest. When we exited the boats we were snuck up upon by an unforeseen wave, consequently soaking my shorts. One of the crewmembers on the boat would prove to be our tour guide around the park, Roy. He was born and raised on Drake Bay with a clear passion for nature. He was bilingual, helping with my understanding and Spanish progress. We were given our packed lunches and told we could leave our flip flops behind. 

So, off we went! After about 50 meters he set-up his Swarvoski telescope and pointed it to the canopy. Hungry toucans were fluttering atop the trees in search of the tiny avocado fruit. My first natural sighting of this silly creature enchanted me more than words can express. He did remind me of Toucan Sam a bit, because his appearance is almost cartoonish with his brightly colored beak seeming too large for his body. The rainforest seemed to be active and alive with the sounds of animals looking for snacks. Roy tried to help all of us take pictures, but you can imagine that it is difficult when they don’t just smile and strike a pose. 

Spider Monkey

We didn’t have to venture much further when we looked up to see and hear Spider Monkeys! I learned that they only have four fingers and are very common in Costa Rica, just like Howler Monkeys. The trail led to the ocean where we saw black iguanas with black hair and hermit crabs. Then, typical of the rainy season, the rain came. A French girl on our tour was kind enough to give me her extra poncho. At this point, lunch at the assigned park quarters was our best option. Since I am a vegetarian my lunch was a cheese sandwich with apricot cookies, an apple, and Kern’s Pear Nectar juice. I was also passed a guestbook where people from all around the world wrote their names, where they were from, and age. People were from almost every place in the world. It was so exciting that I had come to such an exotic and desired place. Soon, the rain died down and we continued further on our hike now very muddy at points to my calf in mud. Roy was excited because he said watch all the animals that come out after the rain. He was right! We saw Howler Monkeys with babies attached, as well as heard their gut-wrenching cries that sound like someone is being murdered, but their just protecting their territory. We also saw a Cayman lurking in the water not far from the forest. As far as birds are concerned, I am convinced that Costa Rica has the widest array of birds that I have seen without much intention. We saw an owl sleeping in the tree branches, woodpeckers, finches, vultures, a Tiger Herron, etc. You get the point. 

Peccary

While venturing back to the boat we were stopped by some wild peccaries. They search the forest ground for the filth leftover from the rain. It was an entire pack even some with babies. They took care of one another ensuring that mom and baby made it safely away from us. Not to far later, we saw the wild boars cousin who had what Roy called “white lipstick” on.  These pigs were a more aggressive breed that made “clicking noises” as a defense mechanism. Roy said the noises came from a special gland they have. I wasn’t really intending on seeing pigs, but I am glad that I had such a close encounter. Sure enough, it was 1:00 PM. We had some refreshments and boarded the boat home. 

We were lucky enough to see a humpback whale (ballena) and her baby on the ride back. She was close to the coast. Roy said that this typical behavior now because the whales are better able to protect their babies closer to the shore. The baby whale was being playful at the moment and playing on mom’s mouth. I saw her barnacles as she jumped out of the water! And this wasn’t even part of the tour, just an added bonus of the timeliness of our trip. We also saw some manta rays swim the surface of the water, but, it clearly was in no comparison to the whales. A wow factor added to my day. But, after much discovery I was a tired girl. No vacation is complete without sight-seeing, especially when it takes about 10 hours to get to your destination, I had another excursion planned for tomorrow. The next day were supposed to Cano Island for snorkeling. This night I hung out on the porch with Yami and the Spanish people until it was bedtime, 9:00 PM sounds about right.
 

Early the next day I was informed that the trip to Cano Island had been cancelled due to the water visibility. That was fine with me. I thought it would be a good idea to go explore Drake Bay, the beaches, and get some souvenir shells. So, I ate breakfast and finished the book I was reading (1984) at a relaxed pace. I made sure to apply SPF, packed my bag, and decided to go explore. I first walked along the shoreline until it was impossible to go any further due to the jagged, rocky coast. I found a sand dollar, inside of a large strong conch shell, and innumerable pearly mussel shells. I was so excited about the sand dollar I was nearly screaming to myself. Then, I back tracked to a pathway that said it would lead to beaches. I had to walk across rusted suspended bridges, on top on tires (to hold the ground in place), and up make-shift muddy hills (makeshift because the tree roots had done an amazing job at creating stairs).  Now, I had developed my skills at identifying animals by listening. I heard macaws and looked up to see about 6 talking to each other with their long bright tails overlapping the branches. I tried to get it on film, but it’s virtually impossible. I just lived out the moment as best as I could. I ventured about 25 minutes further to find a deserted beach- all to myself! I explored it a bit, but, mostly I just sat there enjoying the vitamin D and view. Conscious of falling coconuts (seriously), I stayed on the beach without anything to write on or anything to read. I was just completely happy in my surroundings for about three hours until the tide decided my spot should be part of the ocean. Around 2:00 PM my stomach growled so I thought with no more beach left it would a good idea to head into the town (pueblo). I had to backtrack my steps across bridges, mud, creeks, and uphill to find the small tourist driven town of Drake Bay. There were probably about 3 restaurants, a hostile, a bar, and tourist centers for snorkeling, diving, etc. At around 3:00 PM I couldn’t find any open restaurants! So, parched beyond belief because I had now ran out of water, I made it back to Casa Horizonte and probably drank about a liter of water as soon and I hiked up the massive hill and made it into the kitchen. That night I had dinner with the Spanish people indoors because the rainy season claimed the porch where we typically dined. I had garlic bread, salad, and vegetable lasagna. It was honestly some of the best food I have had in Costa Rica. For desert, I had tres leches cake. Tres leches cake is soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream. When butter is not used, the tres leches is a very light cake, with many air bubbles. This distinct texture is why it does not have a soggy consistency, despite being soaked in a mixture of three types of milk. I slept well with a full stomach and unforgettable memories.

The next morning was my departure. I was awake at 5:30 AM and showered. I had breakfast before 7:00 AM and thanked Yami and her family for everything they had done for me while I stayed with them in this acutely magical place. Yami’s husband, Pedro, helped me with my bag and escorted me to the shore where I and many other tourists waited for the boats to take us from Drake Bay back to Sierpe.


 I feel very fortunate that I am able to travel. I am in awe of most all of the sights I have seen particularly on this trip. It’s astonishing to consider that there are remote parts of the world that people inhabit and though, they can remain untouched by civilization, I am more drawn to these foreign experiences because it is here that I learn the most about other peoples and myself. 

Montverde cloud forest!

I have finally found it- a place that I love in Costa Rica, Monteverde. It is set atop the spine of Costa Rica’s continental divide. It is known as a place of cloud forests and coffee plantations, monkeys, mist, and friendly locals. The town of Santa Elena is small and quaint, filled with tasty restaurants and folksy artisan shops, while the nearby rainforest hosts a remarkable amount of biodiversity. Due to its high altitude – some 4,662 ft (1,440 m) above sea level – Monteverde is privileged to receive a steady supply of clouds and the life-giving moisture that they contain. This moisture, often in the form of fog, catches on the branches of the tallest trees and drips down to the other organisms below. This helps to support a complex and far-reaching ecosystem, one that harbors over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, tens of thousands of insect species, and over 2,500 varieties of plants, 420 of which are orchids alone.

Finding out this information, I thought it would be the perfect little getaway being that I had 4 days off. My roommate, Emily, did not. But, I thought a vacation more geared towards the things I like to do most would be time spent well with my time off. So, I impromptu booked a cheap hotel at the Monteverde Inn for $25 per night including breakfast and hopped on a bus headed there on Thursday morning at 6:30 AM. I left Escazu at 5:00 AM to ensure I would make it to this bus on time, since the next bus wouldn’t depart until the 2:30 PM making my arrival in Monteverde after dark. I made it to Monteverde at around 12:00 PM and even made a local friend on the bus, who claimed to be a tour guide.

When I arrived into Monteverde I took a cab, at the advice of my new friend claiming it was too far to walk from Monteverde centro. For 1,800 colones the cab took me to my new temporary abode, Monteverde Inn. I was greeted by Anthony who anticipated my arrival since I had called a few days early securing a reservation and asking a million questions about arriving there. Even though I was 2 hours early I was permitted to check in and my room was ready for me. He also informed me about the free hiking trails adjacent to the hotel, which I was ecstatic about (free until 4:00 PM when the guided night trails commence). I immediately put away the few things I brought and got changed to start the hike. To my surprise the hike was breath-taking for conception. About 25 feet into the trail a huge tree of intertwined branches and possibily other trees were engulfed by this massive 50 feet tall tree. I followed the outer part of the trail, believing there would be more look outs. And I was right, not too long later, maybe about 15 minutes or so I found a lookout with a great view of the surrounding lushness of all the mountains and valleys. It almost reminded me of Ireland the way the forests (bosque) are so green, but with a Colorado ski town look and tropical feel due to the many palm trees. After the hike I decided to go into Monteverde centro and get some things to eat. I bought bread, juice, and cheese. Cheese is normally a luxury, but in Monteverde because it is produced there it was at an extreme discount- $3 for processed slices! So, I scooped that up. 
  

My plan originally was to visit “The Frog Pond” as recommended by a local friend of Escazu who used to live in Monteverde. He suggested that I visit it at night when all the frogs come out.  So I bought my dinner of bread, cheese, and juice at the grocery store and set-off on foot to visit the frog pond. I saw signs for it, but couldn’t find this pond! Eventually, I came to a commercial building subsequently named, “The Frog Pond”. After searching behind Ticos houses for this place I decided to go in and ask.  The guy behind the counter right away knew I was a gringa and answered me in English and said this was the place I had been looking for. So, for $12 and after walking all that way I decided to take the tour. My tour guide was Franciso, a rather tall and handsome Tico. He spoke English well and abused the word “totally”. He had a gigantic nerd obsession for frogs, and I admire people with passion. He knew everything about mostly Costa Rican frogs. The people here like any other country have a massive love for their country and the animals, products, etc. that are native to it. After the tour, he asked me if I was having drinks sometime this weekend. I said, No, it wasn’t that kind of vacation. With some regret for not at least exchanging numbers, I walked back to my hotel room.

The very next day I made sure to be up and ready before 9:00 AM to take advantage of the free breakfast. Anthony made me fruits- papaya, pineapple, and bananas accompanied by granola with milk. I also had two cups of café con leche. I sat outside with my café con leche and saw a man go inside the dining room. He came back out with two café con leches in to-go cups. I heard him speak in English and asked him where he was from. Instinctively, he answered America. I said “I know, where?”. He told me that he and his wife are from Virginia and were doing the canopy tour that afternoon. The canopy tour included a zipline and tour of bridges. After feeling a sense of general camaraderie I told him that I just might join them on their tour. I spoke with Anthony, who highly recommended the canopy tour. So, at the last minute I joined the group. Transportation to the cloud forest would come at 10:20 AM. So, I got my things together and went. A tourismo (tourist) shuttle picked us up at our hotel along with many other tourists from different hotels interested in the canopy tour.

At the park, we paid for our tours (yes, I still receive student discounts- thanks, Philly U) and quickly were dressed in harnesses and helmets. We were “trained” on what we should do- sit down with your knees up and legs crossed, hold on with one hand, hold the line (to slow yourself down) with the other hand. The lines were secure by being wrapped and drilled around the trees with metal bolts. Piece of mind in regard to safety- right. The guides referred to me as “Christina Aguilera”. I refer to myself as Kristina anymore since Kristen is simply too hard for many Ticos to say. They straight away clip your carabineer and attach your pulley to the line and send you on your way. I was definitely scared on the first 6 or 12 lines. The first one was short only about 25 feet long. Once you made it across you were instantly clipped again and pushed onto the second line. I liked this approach because I didn’t have to have the fear marinate while I waited to do the next line. Some of the lines were about 1 kilometer long and about 300 feet above the cloud forest. It literally felt like you were a bird just scraping the tops of the trees. It was definitely one of the best experiences of my life. Though, I am not a fan of adrenaline rushes anymore and I am not sure if I ever was really a fan, this was quite a rush. I am positive that ziplining anywhere else in the world would not compare to this. Hence, this comes highly recommended! After zipling, I did a tarzan swing. It was a rope attached to your harness that you jumped from about 75 feet from the ground. The initial free fall was scary, but swinging was quite fun! 

Then we explored all the abundance of suspension bridges that hung amidst the gorgeous canopy (which were almost as frightening as the zipline!) that were adjoined to the trees in a similar fashion as the zipline rig. Most of them were bright turqoiuse and witnessing the tree tops from hundreds of feet or more! I had a most wonderful day with new friends and adventures. 

That evening I had my first sushi experience in Costa Rica. I ordered a roll- to be safe. I now forget the name of the roll, but it came with tuna and avocado atop. In the middle was cream cheese and cucumber. After dinner, my new friends from Virgina, Ryan and Miriam, went to the local bar amigos for literally one drink. The music played and we had great conversation- usually involving spirituality topics (maybe it’s the friends I am attracting or this is a very popular topic in Costa Rica). We went back to the hotel and watched the stars start to come out. Ryan has a great app called “Google Sky”. It names the constellations in the sky by pointing your smart device to the area of interest. A very great day came to an end with me falling fast asleep in my bed after having my fill of nature.

On Saturday, I suggested that we do the Monteverde Reserve. It was also recommended by my friend from Escazu, Manea. We shoved complimentary breakfast down our holes around 7:30 AM and drove up to the reserve. We couldn’t get a guide for the reserve since we arrived late- Tico time. Without hesitation, we decided it would be fine to guide ourselves. We went to “Las ventannas” (the windows) of the reserve. This morning had been particularly cloudy and seemed to threaten rain. We hiked up to the top windows. The view was hardly visible due to the thick clouds that rolled in. Also, the wind was the harshed I have experienced in Costa Rica. It was almost frightening because one wrong step or fall and you could very well be over that edge and experiencing the clouds and valley below first hand. We hiked for about two hours then decided we had our fill, ironically when the clouds retreated and sun came out. We got coffee at Café Monteverde, a renowned brand of coffee in Costa Rica. We even picked up some souvenir coffee to bring home (yes, Dad, I am thinking about you!).

coatil

We went back to Monteverde Inn and sat facing the most amazing view of the cloud forest when a hungry coatil appeared! He looked like he was in search of a meal or a large snack. I think they look like a mix between a raccoon and an anteater. Maybe that siting sparked our ambition to hike by our Inn that I had been talking about it for a while. The couple was enthusiastic about the hike from the commencement. Ryan has a little obsession with trees I would contemplate. They loved the views. With them, I had completed more of the hike than by myself. We were hiking by the “Big Tree” when we heard shuffling in the trees. I thought it was the sounds made the awkward and fat black guans. 

Capuchin monkey

We were pleasantly surprised. It turned out that it was a Capuchin monkey eating leaves on the tree tops. My friends as quick as they could they grabbed their video recorder. Suddenly, the Capuchin monkey had a playmate. The two monkeys were playing with each other- pushing one another out of the tree hole and chasing each other atop the trees as if it were as easy as running on pavement. I am sure they were aware of our presence and didn’t seem to mind. In fact, they seemed curious to us. We watched them until they run from our sight. A truly remarkable experience! Afterwards, I decided a nap was needed after waking up pretty much against my own will. I had dinner with my new friends at a very “Tico” place. We had casados, tacos, etc. I ordered a “Mora Fresca Naturale”. It is basically frozen blackberries that are blended with water and ice to make a smoothie. After dinner, we went back to the resort for our new hobby of talking and watching the stars. We chatted and watched the clouds move to change the visibility of the stars until I was too tired.

This morning, Ryan, Miriam, and I had our final breakfast at the Monteverde Inn. I ventured beyond my usual granola and fruits. Today, I had toast, eggs, and fruits. Ryan and Miriam graciously offered me a ride from Monteverde to Escazu, claiming that it was on their way anyway and we had become pretty good friends by the finish of the trip. They were on their way to Manuel Antonio before heading back to the United States on Wednesday. So, we had breakfast and got on the road. The decent from Monteverde is one of the best parts of the trip.

I will never forget Monteverde, the kind and hospitable people I met there- Tico or not, the animals and plants I had been fortunate enough to see, or the memories I will keep forever. I genuinely love this place and though I am not a fan or returning back to a place I have visited once before I would definitely consider it!

Playa Flamingo

I returned from Playa Flamingo a week ago today. Though, late, I still prefer to describe my first time on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Playa Flamingo is located in the providence of Guanacaste, which is well-known for its beautiful beaches. The closest city is Tamarindo, probably about a twenty minute car ride to the south. It is pretty isolated, except for equally distant small beach towns a drive away.

We stayed at Playa Flamingo Beach Resort which is a four star resort. No, I usually don’t travel in such high class but, a friend from Philadelphia sent me a Groupon.com link for 50% off the usual price. So, Emily and I were fortunate enough to stay at this luxurious resort for $45.50 per night combined. From San Jose, it took us about 4 hours to get to Santa Cruz. From Santa Cruz we took a local bus that circled around every town from there to Playa Flamingo which took an additional 2 hours, though the bus cost us about $3. 

Our rooms we’re ready because we had arrived before 2:00 PM so we stopped at an adjacent restaurant to our resort ironically called, “Marie’s” (ironic because I am now missing my mom, Marie). We had some drinks and split some bocas- yucca fries, ceviche, quesadilla con jalapenos. Then we headed back to the hotel and checked into our rooms. It was typical of a resort that catered to Americans- picturesque huts to get drinks and food beneath and a large pool with white lounge chairs strategically and neatly laid besides the pool. We immediately got changed into our bathing suits and went down to concierge to ask about the all-inclusive. For $60 per day for a minimum of two day we decided that the all-inclusive would probably be a bargain. Jose, at the concierge, was even kind enough to allow us to start the all-inclusive that day- Thursday. So, we swam up to the bar and had some typical overpriced vacation drinks- Miami Vices and (drinks subsequently named) Pura Vidas. It was amazing how Americans were so common to this resort. And after hearing Spanish so much the loud demanding voices of Americans stuck out severely. We met some Brasilians and I chatted with the little Portuguese and broken English that they knew. We even hung out with them after the pool, but we all became lost in translation so Emily and I had dinner in the resort not long after. After a busy day of traveling and treating our bellies to as much food as we could see, an early night was prevalent.

The next day we took advantage of our all-inclusive breakfast. It included pinto de gallo (literally translated this means spotted rooster, but it is rice and beans with cilantro, fruits, yogurt, juices infused with lots of sugar, sweet breads (not brains, literally breads that are sugarified), toast, sachlicon, eggs, etc. Pinto de gallo is part of a very sustainable breakfast and plus eating rice for breakfast is something I particularly enjoy.  I placed a huge mound of pinto on my plate with fried cheese. The fried cheese almost looked like deep-fried tofu and can taste like mozzarella sticks. I also helped myself to a large bowl of fruit and yogurt. To wash it all down I usually require at least two cups of café con leche (hot milk). With Emily and the view of the ocean not too far away it was a nice breakfast. After stuffing ourselves we decided it was a good idea to change into our bathing suite and take advantage of the pool. We got some drinks and swam in the pool while chatting with many Americans on vacation at this resort. We found a woman from North Carolina who knew Dr. Paul Farmer from “Mountains beyond Mountains”. The story traces the life of physician and anthropologist Paul Farmer who has ties with Haiti. She treated us to dinner with her family at a restaurant on the beach. Most of the dinners in Playa Flamingo were unfortunately not that good. Although we all ordered different kinds of fish they all looked the same and tasted similar. After dinner we had some drinks at our resort.

At 12:00 midnight on my birthday, per my request, we headed to the beach and swam in the ocean. The ocean was dark, but very warm. No mysterious objects or seaweed was rampant throughout the ocean which made it more comfortable for me. The sky was completely clear- very few and far between during the rainy season. We swam past the breaker under a blanket of stars and unknown constellations. It was one of my best birthday’s ever. I find so much happiness in nature, specifically stars.

The next two days we alternated between being beach bums and ocean bums- taking cover when it rained in the late afternoons. We also made sure to sit on the beach for every sunset since the Pacific is obviously known for its gorgeous sunsets. However, the mosquitoes were quite a hindrance. They found any and all ways to attack my Italian blood even through cloth. 

It was nice to feel lavish at a resort, but it takes away from experiencing the culture. We learned that it is better for us at least to be accommodated in smaller hotels where we can obtain more about the culture. But, it’s also nice to pamper yourself every once in a while. After the last two beach vacations I am wanting to experience more natural areas of Costa Rica like mountains, rainforests, cloud forests, and volcanoes. So, to fulfill my nature side those are goals of mine while I am a tourist in this beautiful place consequently called Costa Rica.