No es adiós, ya que siempre estará en mi corazón

In a haze of what seemed like a hallucination Giles and I decided on Sunday, August 21, 2011 that we would be returning home on Monday, August 29, 2011. This conclusion was drawn from a series of climatic (hopefully not karmatic) events.

My dear friend, Giles, had the worst luck. She has been sick for much of our trip including issues with Costa Rica’s national beers and meat products. It might be safe to say that she will never eat a hamburger again (GO MEATLESS!). She also had a nasty fainting spell on bus from Escazú to San Jose. But, the Ticas were nice enough to give her a candy and her bus fare change. Along with the loss of good health, she lost pretty much all of her gadgets. Being that she is very tech savvy woman, any loss of digital life is a great loss to her, as I am sure it is to you or I. But, you would have to know my friend to fully understand. The worst loss of life came most recently. One rainy afternoon while she was at work the ceiling purged water perfectly positioned over her Mac book which was in a protective case. I think the case may have done a good job at actually retaining the water. Ironically we left the computer for a few days without turning it on or powering it into electricity and it worked. You will be sad to know that since Mac has made it into the U.S. it has now decided to commit suicide. Any of these instances can make a sane person loose it. So, you can only imagine how this left my best friend feeling.

I have been more fortunate than my little chicquita in many aspects. I didn’t become ill (except for the first month of what I consider normal stomach pains while adjusting to Costa Rican foods). I didn’t damage any of my prized technology, surprisingly. I wasn’t depressed, but, I also wasn’t happy.

Our living situation was not ideal. I am now 27 and have lived alone for 3 years prior to this trip. And it wasn’t the fact that I had to share an apartment- I had to share a room. My bed was an air mattress that had lost it pump so it had to be blown up manually by breath. In the end I no longer had breath to fuel my bed so my body would be touching the cold concrete at night forcing me to wear layers of clothes and socks to bed. In addition to sharing a small space, we had many neighborhood enemies that included jungle kitties, a tartuga (a specific name of a Costa Rican rat-like animal that I can find no validation for except for other Ticos that I am convinced lurked in our yard at night), countless spiders bigger than your fist, and (Gile’s most feared) huge moths the size of bats. To my astonishment, Gile’s had less fear of what I called the tarantula spiders and stomped on them with my flip flops. However, she couldn’t contain her terror of the huge moths. One lived in our apartment for about a week behind the curtains and fluttered in the night trying to escape (it made a sound like rapid typing) until it eventually died from what I believe to be starvation.  The kitties of the neighbors were also frequent visitors, but we didn’t mind them as much because they were cute little striped orange kitties. The stray “jungle kitties” were a cause for apprehension. They were exactly how you envision a childhood cartoon of evil cats. It looked like mom’s tail was stubby from being burned in a cigarette lighter and she along with her brood had a callous demeanor. They were scared of people which worked out well for us because we were equally afraid of them. As bad as I am making this sound these out of the ordinary events had become part of our everyday. Our daily lives there now translate into stories which have built up my character and pushed me past my limits. Since yoga-ing and traveling, I like to consider that you never really know how much you are capable of until you try.  And even when you think you reach your breaking point somehow you still live on- stronger, wiser, and feeling more accomplished.

I would have always regretted not taking this opportunity. In business, they consistently tell you how it’s all about being in the right place at the right time, which is exactly what happened here.  I am glad that I did. I am grateful that through my barter with lemons I had the chance to make a sour and sweet batch of lemonade. I do not think I am saying “adios” to Costa Rica though I am positive I will never go back. For the recollections of this journey, the people I have met, and everything it has taught me will forever live on in my memories (and on my blogspot). I have learned so much about Costa Rican culture, language, my friend, and myself. I have also learned that I have an amazing friend (and we should never live in Costa Rica together). I told her before we left to the U.S.“This is the most serious relationship I have ever had”. And it’s true. I have never lived with someone 24/7 so closely before. But, if we could do this and make it out alive I have no doubt for our friendship in the future. Most importantly, I have learned that I am capable of anything (not like I didn’t think that before). I have also learned to take life less seriously. I am no longer down on myself for being almost six years out of college and not in Management level position at some money hungry company. I see myself with more purpose. I want to help people, communities, and the world regardless of the salary or the position title. And if it took me this long to figure it out- todo bien!

La Fortuna y Volcan Arenal

After (or during) our Manuel Antonio adventure Giles and I decided our fate. Costa Rica had not worked out for a plethora of reasons that will be mentioned later. Timing was of the essence because we were on a tourist visa and needed to exit the country by August 29, 2011. So, we now had one week left in Costa Rica.

A volcano and holding a sloth were top priority for me. Giles also had wanted to hike a volcano so we decided we would take care of some things and go hike the volcano at the end of the week. Our time in Costa Rica grew extremely short and Giles became deterred by the rain, so I decided to travel to the infamous La Fortuna and Volcan Arenal by myself.

Arenal Volcano (Volcán Arenal) is an active stratovolcano in north-western Costa Rica around 90 km northwest of San Jose, in the province of Alajuela, canton of San Carlos, and district of La Fortuna. The Arenal volcano measures at least 1,633 meters (5,358 ft). It is conically shaped with a crater spanning 140 meters (460 ft). Arenal is geologically considered a young volcano and the age is estimated to be less than 7,000 years. The volcano was dormant for hundreds of years and exhibited a single crater at its summit covered by dense vegetation. In 1968 it erupted unexpectedly, destroying the small town of Tabacón. Due to the eruption three more craters were created on the western flanks but only one of them still exists today. Arenal is Costa Rica's most active volcano, and one of the ten most active volcanoes in the world. It has been studied by seismologists for many years. Although the activity nowadays is less damaging, you can still see ash columns, underground rumbling, glowing orange lava flows and sudden explosions on a daily basis. With its perfect conicalshape it allows breathtaking views of volcanic action in the summit. Almost every night the crater offers a spectacle of lights with its explosive eruptions. The temperature varies from 16 °C (61 °F) in the high areas to 24 °C (75 °F) in the low areas and the annual rainfall is around 500 centimeters (200 in). Arenal Volcano area is an important watershed for the Arenal Lake Reservoir. The reservoir's water is used for hydroelectric power. It is also connected to the national system.

Early Friday morning I left to have one great last adventure and see some natural beauty that I wouldn’t be able to find in the States. My online efforts indicated that the bus from San Jose to La Fortuna would leave at 8:40 AM or 6ish AM (entirely too early). I left Escazú at 7:00 AM and got into the Coca Cola of San Jose at approximately 7:30 AM. Per usual with my trips, I waste no time searching for these terminals. I find it better to pay a taxi and at least pretend like I have been living in Costa Rica for a while so as not to get ripped off. I arrived at Terminal Atlantico Norte very early, I thought. I would have enough time to get a café con leche and relax before heading onto the bus. Wrong! For the first time, all my internet research about timing and buses was completely incorrect. When I exited from the taxi a man at the bus station asked me where I was going. I said to La Fortuna. He told me the last bus had left. Somehow in Spanish translation I thought he told me he could take me to meet up with the bus in his taxi. He put me and my luggage in his car and we made small talk. He asked me if I like to dance and what I like about Costa Rica. Then, he put me on the phone with who I thought was the bus driver who said he would wait for me. We drove through San Jose and I had the thought in the back f my mind that he would drop me off any minute then he drove on the Pista (highway). He told me that my fare would be $80 when a 4 and ½ hour bus ride from San Jose to La Fortuna would be $4. I said no and pull over. He told me that for that short ride I would owe him 20,000 colones ($40). I gave him $10 while he looked at me with dismay. I said you can take it or I will take it with me. He asked me to get out of his car. So, I did.

I waited on the side of the highway with many other Costa Ricans as innumerable buses stopped by about every five minutes, mostly going to Alajuela. I had to wait about 40 minutes for the La Fortuna bus. Needless to say, it was not a directo. But, no one was on it at this point so I had chosen a window seat and quickly fallen asleep. When I awoke the bus was packed even with many people standing. My surroundings were unreal. The best way I could describe it was a green lush and hilly landscape with architecture that looked like it was straight from a Dr. Seuss children’s book. I had no idea where I was. I only knew that I had been sleeping for about an hour or two. I pulled out the map I pasted in my journal to grasp an idea where I was or how far away I was from my final destination. I do get nervous on these buses that aren’t direct because you have no way of knowing exactly where you are if you have never been there before. I asked a woman sitting next to me and she said that we were not far from San Carlos. Perfect! I hadn’t missed the stop. I really do enjoy riding the buses in Costa Rica the landscapes are absolutely beautiful (and almost not able to be fully understood). So, leaving my home in Escazú at 7:00 AM I finally arrived in La Fortuna after 1:30 PM.

As is tradition in Costa Rica, I was immediately solicited as soon as my feet hit the ground in La Fortuna for hotels and excursions. I hadn’t even had a drink today! I politely told my solicitors I had a place to stay and food and drink were first on my agenda. I ended up at a coffee shop in the centro of the town. Although it was rainy season this day had been simply sunny and gorgeous. I drank my coffee and watched all the tourists (mostly) and locals go about their day. This town seemed very touristy, but, it made me feel more comfortable and safe.

My hotel, Las Colinas, was in the center of the town and very easy to find right off the main street. I checked in a little early with a very friendly English-speaking receptionist. She gave me a book of excursion suggestions, but suggested I hike the volcano today because it was such a nice (and clear) day. I took her suggestion and booked the 3:00 tour. I was led to my room by an equally friendly hotel worker.  As she led me upstairs there was a gorgeous view of the volcano on the roof patio area. My room had two beds, air conditioning, and a balcony with a hammock! I was totally not expecting a balcony with a hammock, but this just added immense value to my $29/night stay including breakfast. I showered since my bus ride and day had been long and sweaty and got changed for the hike to Volcan Arenal.

I was picked up by a tour bus with three other tall light-haired Austrians. They had been vacationing all over Latin America. They started in Panama, now were in Costa Rica with destinations of Manuel Antonio and Monetverde, and the following week were headed to Nicaragua. They seemed cool and we chatted about Costa Rica, the U.S., and Europe. They seemed pretty interested in the fact that I had been to Europe a few times.

The tour guide, like many people living in La Fortuna I noticed that he was not from there, but moved due to work opportunity. Before this, he had been giving tours on the Caribbean side. He has moved to La Fortuna over a year ago for clearly, a job in tourism. He had a great knowledge of the history of the volcano, except he told us that the volcano has been inactive since 2010. Most Ticos whom I told after said that he had it wrong. If this is so, apparently all the websites I visited did, too.

Regardless of his (inadequate) knowledge, we explored a lagoon with stagnant water and mosquitoes a plenty. We also almost stepped on a baby black turtle that was smaller than my fist. But, the guide assisted it to the water so that the unfortunate wouldn’t happen later. The Austrians and I hiked for about 45 minutes to beautiful panoramic views of the volcano and Lake Arenal in the distance. It was not permitted to hike any further due to the volcano’s activity (not sure if my guide knew and digested this information).  We took some pictures together and relished in great views. The Austrians even decided to add to the value of the views by smoking cigarettes with permission from our guide.

Afterwards, the Austrians went to Baldi Hot Springs. I had a hot springs experience once before in New Zealand. There it seemed more like a resort than an actual well-being experience. So, I decided to skip the hot springs and save the money for food and/or another excursion. So, I was dropped off at my hotel where I got showered and changed for dinner. I hadn’t eaten all day so I was even surprised I had enough energy to do the hike. But, I was thankful they did provide water on the hike.

I was recommended to go to a Soda on the corner near my hotel, and knowing that I would be leaving the country soon I decided to eat typical Costa Rican dishes. I asked for a refresco natural, but was given an iced tea. No big deal, it was only $1. So, I ordered a vegetarian casado. A casado (Spanish, "married man") is a Costa  Rican meal consisting of rice, black beans, plantains, salad, and a tortilla, and an optional entrée that may include chicken, beef, pork, and so on. The term originated when restaurant customers asked to be treated as casados, since married men ate such meals at home. Casados are usually god and filling, but, by no means are they the most delicious meals you have ever eaten.

Feeling full, I walked home to my hotel room where I laid in the hammock and thought about my time in Costa Rica as well as recreational activities for the following day. I was torn between rock repelling or a canoe ride in Lake Arenal. I thought I should decide over breakfast (desayuno). Breakfast was made to order eggs, gallo pinto (pre-made and microwaved), and toast which had a far too familiar taste of Super Sabanilla, the convenient store adjacent to our house in Escazú. The pinto was OK and the toast I couldn’t even stomach to eat, but I thought it best to fill up on included breakfast. The receptionist was visiting the chef in the dining area. So, I asked him for recommendation on which excursion is better. He told me without hesitation that I must do the rock rappelling.

That was all it took. So, I booked the rock rappelling for 12:00PM. After breakfast I relaxed in my room and in my hammock for a bit and got ready to go.  I have become a light packer since Costa Rica. (But, you would have thought I would have learned my lesson since Europe). This was one of the (only) few times I have been picked up on time. A van with a representative from Pure Trek Canyoning and two other people were inside. We drove about 15 minutes to get to their office where they fed us a “tipico” lunch of rice and beans with a corn tortilla. The other people who joined me on this adventure were friends who had met on a retreat in Los Angeles, CA. They were in search of good places for retreats. The man was a Tico from Costa Rica and the woman was from Los Angeles. The guides told us that they typically have about 40 people on these treks, but due to the rainy season, there were only 3 of us. So, it would take less time. That was fine by me!

After lunch we put our things into lockers that were provided for us and hopped in a van that that dropped us off on a dirt road to our other mode of transportation, a tractor. The tractor carried us up dirt roads with a wagon with our equipment attached at the back of it. It was about a ten minute ride with other guides who had a great reppoire with one another. They made the dynamic of the trip more fun and light. When the tractor arrived to our destination, a covered area where we put on our harnesses, helmets, and gloves. The canyoning consistsed of 5 rappels (4 waterfalls and 1 dry rock face). The dry rock face was the first rappel which just so happened to be the highest one at over 100 feet. Per usual, I became very scared looking down. And I remembered the guide told me that if people take too long to jump when they are scared he will push them. So, I started yelping “Don’t push me”! He didn’t. My adrenaline kicked in which you would think I am a fan of since I like adventurous activities, but ironically I am not. After I did the first rappel the rest were much easier and a lot of fun. The waterfall ones were great! And the water was actually quite warm. The group of guys that assisted us I really enjoyed. They had a great sense of humor and like to play. I would highly recommend this over priced excursion!

When I returned I watched the sun set over the volcano painting the sky with violent pinks and reds. After this breath-taking display I decided I should get something to eat. This night I chose not to go to a Soda for any more tipico plates. I wasn’t hungry for anything in particular except good ice cream. So, I decided to get a salty snack of platanos con sal y limon (probably my most favorite fatty pre-packaged snack of Costa Rica). I walked around the centro where a lovely little well-kept park sat. After my salty dehydrating snack from the supermarket I walked to an ice cream shop (heledaria) and got a cup of half coconut (coco) and half cookie (galleta) which happened to be one of the best ice creams I have eaten in Costa Rica! I sat in the park and watched families play ball with their children or just sit and talk.  It was nice to take in this moment and observe this culture so different from my own, but I also had feelings that I didn’t belong there.

I went to bed early, typical of my Costa Rican lifestyle. I woke up and had breakfast the same as the day before. Except on Sunday I now had three pieces of the funky toast when I didn’t even eat one piece initially. For the rest of the morning I sat on the roof finishing a book, Bel Canto, I borrowed from another hotel I had been in. As I sat with Arenal facing me, the sun sitting on my shoulders I felt very happy and grateful for all the moments I had been lucky enough to have.

I showered after reading, packed my things, and checked out of Hotel Colinas. I am sure that I will never go back, but I can recommend this place certainly. This was about the time the clouds rolled in threatening rain. I was too early for the bus so I just sat in the middle of the centro park of La Fortuna reflecting on my time. I like to get to the bus early though knowing that there are only two buses a day and I did want a seat. So, I waited at the bus station not long after for the directo bus. Which I am certain directo now means it directly goes to “X” city, but may or may not stop along the way. Whatever. I was just happy to know that I was on the right bus with a window seat. I love looking out the window on buses in Costa Rica observing the strange unknown land and people right in front of me that I am so curious to. About 5 hours later I arrived in San Jose.

Manuel Antonio!

We have been recommended by Ticos and foreign tourists alike to visit Manuel Antonio National Park. Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is a small National Park in the Centeral Pacific Conservation Area located on the Pacific, just south of the city of Quepos, and 132 km (82 m) from the national capital of San Jose. Established in 1972 with an area enumerating 4,014 acres (the smallest of all national parks in Costa Rica), it is the destination of as many as 150,000 visitors annually and well-known for its beautiful beaches and hiking trails.

So, off Giles and I went from San Jose to Manuel Antonio on the 12:15 bus, tickets costing about $4. We were lucky enough for one of the only times in CR to take a directo bus, which was more or less direct without stops on the highway to pick-up or drop off, anyone! We passed the cute beach town of Quepos and rode up the mountain to Manuel Antonio, the rain was now starting. We passed our hotel, so got dropped off about a mile away and decided to take a cab back to our hotel, Hotel Plinio. I would confess that the taxi driver ripped us off, charging us 2,000 colones for the ride, but we were able to haggle him down to 1,500 colones. The hotel and Manuel Antonio itself seemed pretty touristy which may have added to the inflation of our cab ride. It was after 3:00 when we got to the hotel, but decided that an early dinner was the first order of business. The restaurant in the hotel, like many restaurants in Manuel Antonio, had a Tex-Mex sort of menu. We ordered classic margaritas which were on special, split nachos with guacamole, and split a red bean enchilada with Mexican rice and what tasted like turkey gravy atop.

After dinner we checked into our room, which only had one bed. So, after a quick visit to the concierge we opened the door to our temporary lodging, a two story loft. It was definitely rustic, but far exceeded my expectations. We flipped a coin to see who got the king side bed in the private loft upstairs. Excitedly, I won. So, we unpacked some our things in our two night get-away bags. Then we sat on the deck outside that overlooked the street and foliage. I wanted a café con leche, so we decided to go back downstairs to the restaurant, where we were enticed by the helado frito (fried ice cream) on the menu and washed that down with our coffee. After too filling desserts we read, wrote, and talked for a bit… usually about Costa Rica. But, we need our next day was going to be early and could be a tiring hike so went to bed shortly after.

The next morning we woke up early and were out of our hotel room by 8:00-30. We walked down the hill to Quepos to have some breakfast before our adventure. At a restaurant close to the bus stop, we had breakfast at a little place that looked like a pizza shop, but, was also open for breakfast. We both ordered café con leches and gallo pint with scrambled eggs (huevos revueltos) and toast. There was a lot of gallo pinto which we like to label as a “sustainable” breakfast. We both cleaned our entire plates and headed to the bus with about ten minutes to spare. It was already hot and humid. I have noticed that the humidity is more rampant near the beaches than in the remainder of CR. The bus ride was only about 15 minutes and had many foreigners from the U.S., France, and Germany on it, so, you knew it was the right one!

We were left off in the center of Manuel Antonio which had many souvenir shops and restaurants aligned facing the beach. We followed some other tourists for a few streets to the park entrance. Like most of my park experiences here, I thought they would take credit card as payment for the entrance fee, but, this one did not allow this. The tour guide said it was because of the government. Whatever the case, it worked out in our favor. We only had 20,000 colones between us and with this we were able to get a guided tour, typically costing 20,000 colones per person, but since we had no other cash on us we were secretively allowed to join a group with a tour. Before our entering the park, a guide set-up a telescope with its lens facing above the lodge in a tree pointing to a sloth. It was a three-toed sloth hanging upside-down from the tree eating leaves. You could hardly tell that there was a sloth with the naked eye, even though he was only about 50 feet away! This was a promising sight, since I had been having trouble seeing sloths before this point.

We handed in our tickets to a guide at the entrance of the gate and joined a tour with about 8 more people. He immediately set-up his telescope and showed us howler monkeys in the treetops. He didn’t spend too much time emphasizing the monos (monkeys) because he said we would have a better chance to see them later. As we kept walking he stopped to the shrubbery on sides of the path. He got a large leaf and tore the leaves from the stem. He used the stick to poke a very large leaf that had curled and become home to a tarantula. He told us that they aren’t deadly as long as you get the anti-venom. Then he also showed us a rainbow caterpillar on a branch through his telescope. 

Not long after, he parted the some branches and there was a three-toed sloth behind them. She was actually moving (as fast as a sloth can) down the tree to defecate. I had never seen one so close before nor had I seen one move. She was certainly in a hurry. He grabbed hold of the branches as a better footing down.  Apparently, they live their entire lives in the canopy only heading down a tree once a week for a bowl movement. No one is exactly sure why. One theory is that they help fertilize the plants. Another is they are just considerate little lazy bears. 

We then walked to some trees that were alive with monkeys! There were howler monkeys and their babies socializing in their tops. The guide was kind enough to position the telescope on one of the monkey’s private areas, making for a good laugh for the viewer’s unexpentancy. The path had lead to one of 4 beaches in Manuel Antonio- Manuel Antonio, Espadilla Sur, Teldoro, and Playita. With their large light sand berms, it is easy to see why they attract beach goers of all ages. Both Manuel Antonio and Espadilla Sur contain tidal pools and offer the possibility of snorkeling. The guide showed us some more animals before it became a beach day. He showed us three tiny bats, obviously sleeping in a tree since it was daytime. Also, we saw a rainbow boa constrictor looking much like knots in the tree and a caiman.

The tour was only about 1 hour and a half so with plenty of time for the rest for the rest of the day we played at the beach. The water was crystal clean except for some vegetation and rocks. Manuel Antonio, I think, can best be described of as where Costa Rican rainforest meets a magnificent beach. Emily immediately when we put our stuff on the beach. I, however, as recently typical, climbed out on some rocks in search of souvenir rocks and shells. I had a very childhood moment when I slipped on the rocks and skinned my knee, which was worth it for the gorgeous rocks and shells that I acquired! I then joined Emily on a swim past the breaker. There were many people sitting on the beach enjoying the gorgeous views, but there were also some scattered swimmers, some out pretty far. We stayed on the beach for a few hours listening to the foreign conversations, some indecipherable, until we thought we had reached our sun limitation.

We followed the path leading to the exit. We had to cross a little stream where you were immediately greeted and stalked by vendors selling coconuts and carefully painted vases. Of course, we purchased freshly cracked coconuts sold by a pipa-man who paid very close attention to detail. He served us pipa frios with intentional cut cracks on either side for bright pink hibiscus flowers. The pipa man also placed two hibiscus flowers behind each of our ears. I felt like a Chinese dragon, but, overall I was enthusiastic about his presentation and felt like such a tourist. But, the pip was especially refreshing after a small hike and beach bathing.



We walked into tents filled with souvenirs, immediately accompanied the vendors. But, we had no money so that was short-lived (at least, cash, anyway).  We initially planned to walk up the hill and treat ourselves to some dinner overlooking the beach. Parched at this point and lacking stamina, we chose a restaurant in Manuel Antonio. We ordered drinks made with Cacique guaro, lime juice, and brown sugar. Cacique Guaro is brand of guaro produced by Fábrica Nacional de Licores or "FANAL". The Cacique Guaro is a sugar cane liquor of high purity and is the best selling distilled spirit in Costa Rica. It's known as "Costa Rica liquor".  It was delicious and filled with brown sugar. I can only compare it to Brazilian’s infamous Caipirinha cocktail. We also ordered ceviche, which is especially revigorating in the humid climate. For a heartier portion, we split a tuna sandwich with fries. We should have know (a common sediment) that the fish would be overcooked and/or just not good. Emily has lost her appetite for meat since trying a few meat products from Costa Rica (like ham and burgers). And I, an (infamous) “pescetarian” am looking faith in the fish, at least here. The tuna sandwich was dry (as compared to the raw way I prefer it prepared) and tasted fishy. But, at least the drinks were great.

We finished off the night with some nightclub life in Quepos. We walked around the centro of the city and found not many people on the streets, but, in this little upstairs bar/club in the center of the city there were many tourists having a good time. Most all of the people there were not from Quepos or Costa Rica for that matter. Overall, I felt old at the bar everyone was clearly in their young 20s. However, it was nice to meet people from Canada, France, Argentina, etc.

The next morning we slept in until 11:00 AM, a serious rarity in CR. So, we found the concierge and checked out. We ran to the bank and the bus station to find out that the 12:00PM bus to San Jose had left. So, we just bought our tickets for the 2:00 PM bus. We walked by the ocean in Quepos to kill time and talk about experiences in CR which we often refer to as “The land of broken promises”. Now hungry, we walked into Dos Locos Mexican restaurant and looked at the menu which looked delicious. But, then we looked at the prices and decided that it was just too expensive. Back to the place we ate breakfast at, we decided to give lunch a try, having a good experience with desayuno. We ordered a margarita pizza. I thought I had asked for jalapeños on half.  We also had some mora en agua refrescos. The pizza was not very good, but I also have high Scrantonian (pizza capital of the world!) standards.

The bus ride home was not directo, taking about 5 hours instead of the 2 and ½ it initially took to get there. As I didn’t have any obligations for that day, it didn’t matter too much. Even though the bus takes sometimes an incredible amount of time, I do prefer it. It is a prefect way to see the country, city, and amazing landscapes that Costa Rica is privileged to have. 

Osa Peninsula!

After about ten hours of traveling I got home last night from the infamous Osa Peninsula. The Osa Peninsula (Península de Osa) is a peninsula located in southwestern Costa Rica, in the Puntarenas Province, on the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula was formed geologically by a faulting system that extends north into California. One of the most biologically intense places on earth, the Osa Peninsula is home to at least half of all species living in Costa Rica. Perfect, quintessential place to discover all the species of animals one thinks of when they envision the thought of Costa Rica!

So, early Thursday morning my journey commenced. I left Escazu at 5:30 AM to catch the bus into the Coca Cola of San Jose. From the Coca Cola I hopped in a cab and asked to go to Terminal Alfaro. The cab driver asked where I was going. I answered “Drake Bay”. He said that I didn’t want Terminal Alfaro, I wanted the Tracopa bus. All I could say was “Oh my God. Thank you so much” with my very best early morning Spanish. He was right. Costa Rica lacks website and correct information via inter-web which makes for a usually confused and impromptu traveling Gringa. I arrived to Tracopa which was close to where I work in San Pedro and bought my ticket. With some time to spare, it’s always a good idea to use the bathroom before departing on these long journeys which do not have bathrooms on the bus. So, I used the loo and after stepping out noticed the 200 colones (40 cents) charge. I was immediately confronted by an attendant to pay the charge. So, I did. The bus left a little after 7:00 AM and only had about 5 million stops along the way to Palmar Norte. We had about two restroom and refreshment breaks and countless stops along the highway to pick up people waiting and drop off people to their destinations. I arrived in Palmar Norte, a popular destination for many people riding such an early bus at about 1:00 PM. I could’ve waited for the bus from Palmar Norte to take me to Sierpe, but I didn’t want to miss the boat from Sierpe to Drake Bay. The last boats (according to the inconsistent interweb) left at 3:00 PM. Against my fragile intuition; I took a 20 minute cab ride from an aggressive taxi man for 20,000 colones which I haggled from 23,000 colones. On the ride, we talked about America. It’s always amazing to me how everyone in the world knows so much about the United States and it’s governance while I don’t have the slightest inkling who the president of Costa Rica is.

He dropped me off at the Las Vegas restaurant where boats take you to and from Sierpe to Drake Bay throughout certain times of the day. I had plenty of time to spare so I ordered some coffee, water, and ceviche- my favorite food of Costa Rica which is a pickled fish usually served with crackers or bread. This time it was served with patacones. Patacones are a side dish that is popular in many Latin American countries. The dish is made from sliced green (unripe) plantains which are cut either length-wise or width-wise and are twice fried. The slices of plantains are fried for 1-2 minutes on each side until they are golden in color and removed, then patted for excess oil. Afterwards, they are pounded flat with a utensil made for the task called a "tostonera," or any kitchen utensil that has a large enough flat surface. The plantains are then fried once again until they are crisp and golden brown. While waiting for the boat to take me to Drake Bay I befriended a local Sierpe boat guide, Oscar. His English was pretty good, but, he expressed that he wanted to learn more. Ticos who seek improvement on the English usually become quite infatuated with you when express that you are an English teacher. As we sat chatting about some English expressions, an American Crocodile (cocodrillo) emerged from the muddy waters. He snatched a fish and was chewing him head above water. Excellent- I didn’t reach my destination yet and I was already seeing some real nature in action! Oscar said they only have American Crocodiles and Caymans in the Osa Peninsula. American Crocs are bigger. As he claimed to be from Sierpe and a guide, I believe him and very interested in learning these kinds of things. Soon enough the rain was beginning and it was time to board my boat. I only had one other passenger in the Chincita. This man lived in Drake Bay and had with him two boxes covered in garbage bags. He suggested I take a garbage bag and use it as a poncho. At first, I was rather leery, considering that there was a cover over the boat and the rain wasn’t that hard. But, I took his advice thankfully. As soon as the boat started going the mist turned heavier. We left Sierpe through little canals that were full of trees that had roots above the water- very Amazonian! I took a great video as we slowly crept down these canals that lead the freshwater to the saltwater. I am not joking when I say at some points I couldn’t even open my eyes because with the rain and speed of the boat, the water felt like needles in my eyes. But, when I could open them I saw rocky shores, random rocks quite a distance from the shoreline, and an endless ocean meeting the leaking sky. After about an hour and a half travel by boat, I was dropped up at the shoreline of Drake Bay.

It was now about 5:00PM. I grabbed my luggage- one little backpack and an over the shoulder bag. Good thing I have learned to travel lightly! I was greeted by a local who helped me with my luggage and lead me up a steep muddy hill to Casa Horizontes, the bed and breakfast I had a reservation for ($20 per night including breakfast). It was a pretty intense and slippery incline to this haven. By American standards, this would not be acceptable. But, Casa Horizontes, thus, named had the most beautiful view of the entire bay enveloped by tropical trees, wildlife, and clouds. Yami was waiting for me on the porch/dining area with coffee and cookies which I gladly partook in. We talked for a few hours. She told me about her family and the reason for her b and b- She has a special needs son which requires the family to make some extra money. She learned that I am an English teacher and expressed interest in learning English better. I felt a genuine charisma about her. She was so warm and friendly that I right away took a liking to her. As is tradition in Costa Rica, I went to bed early.

The next morning I had breakfast around 8:00 AM. I had a beautifully arranged place setting with fresh tropical flowers perfectly placed in the center. Firstly, I dove into fresh café con leche which somehow tastes so much better here than in the U.S. Then, I had a plate of fresh fruits- pineapple, papaya, and mango. To top it all off home-made pancakes and scrambled eggs. I enjoyed my view almost as much as my breakfast. After breakfast, new guests arrived. They were a couple from Spain and had been traveling around a few other places in Costa Rica. After they were greeted with the same respect that I have been given we went horseback riding around Drake Bay. A local, I suspect, had three geared up horses waiting. The horses we all different colors with one similar aspect: a little scrawny. We adventured up and down dirt roads and through turquoise streams that soaked our feet. The three hour ride eventually led us back to the ocean where we reprieved our tired horses.

Later that afternoon, I decided to venture to the beach, look for rocks, and perhaps see a sunset. (I say perhaps, because it is a bay that is slightly curved inland so you might miss the sun setting by land masses of rock and earth.) I walked onto the rocks and watched massive waves explode and die. I was out there until high tide took all of the rocks with it. Then, I just sat on a safer part of the beach where I was approached by a local boy. He told me his mother works at a local hotel as a chef. And, he is not originally from Drake Bay, but Sierpe. He likes Drake Bay better because of the ocean. Then he asked me if I was “Casado”. I answered, “Si, Estoy Cansada.” I thought he was asking me if I was tired (cansado), but really he was asking me if I was married (casado). We had a good laugh about it. Oh, the mistakes I make in order to learn! I went back to Casa Horizonte, showered, and got ready for bed. The next day would be an early one. The next day held my entire reason for visiting Osa Peninsula.

I was up at about 5:30, perfect timing for sunrise. I had a breakfast and company joined me not much later. This morning we were going to Corcovado National park. The boat would leave from Drake Bay a little after 7:00 AM to get to the park by 8:30.  The boat ride was further southeast guided by the early morning sun.  The boat ride alone to get there was simply amazing. The coast of the Peninsula is simply gorgeous untouched natural beauty. As soon as the boat made it to shore a pair of Scarlet Macaws flew into the forest. When we exited the boats we were snuck up upon by an unforeseen wave, consequently soaking my shorts. One of the crewmembers on the boat would prove to be our tour guide around the park, Roy. He was born and raised on Drake Bay with a clear passion for nature. He was bilingual, helping with my understanding and Spanish progress. We were given our packed lunches and told we could leave our flip flops behind. 

So, off we went! After about 50 meters he set-up his Swarvoski telescope and pointed it to the canopy. Hungry toucans were fluttering atop the trees in search of the tiny avocado fruit. My first natural sighting of this silly creature enchanted me more than words can express. He did remind me of Toucan Sam a bit, because his appearance is almost cartoonish with his brightly colored beak seeming too large for his body. The rainforest seemed to be active and alive with the sounds of animals looking for snacks. Roy tried to help all of us take pictures, but you can imagine that it is difficult when they don’t just smile and strike a pose. 

Spider Monkey

We didn’t have to venture much further when we looked up to see and hear Spider Monkeys! I learned that they only have four fingers and are very common in Costa Rica, just like Howler Monkeys. The trail led to the ocean where we saw black iguanas with black hair and hermit crabs. Then, typical of the rainy season, the rain came. A French girl on our tour was kind enough to give me her extra poncho. At this point, lunch at the assigned park quarters was our best option. Since I am a vegetarian my lunch was a cheese sandwich with apricot cookies, an apple, and Kern’s Pear Nectar juice. I was also passed a guestbook where people from all around the world wrote their names, where they were from, and age. People were from almost every place in the world. It was so exciting that I had come to such an exotic and desired place. Soon, the rain died down and we continued further on our hike now very muddy at points to my calf in mud. Roy was excited because he said watch all the animals that come out after the rain. He was right! We saw Howler Monkeys with babies attached, as well as heard their gut-wrenching cries that sound like someone is being murdered, but their just protecting their territory. We also saw a Cayman lurking in the water not far from the forest. As far as birds are concerned, I am convinced that Costa Rica has the widest array of birds that I have seen without much intention. We saw an owl sleeping in the tree branches, woodpeckers, finches, vultures, a Tiger Herron, etc. You get the point. 

Peccary

While venturing back to the boat we were stopped by some wild peccaries. They search the forest ground for the filth leftover from the rain. It was an entire pack even some with babies. They took care of one another ensuring that mom and baby made it safely away from us. Not to far later, we saw the wild boars cousin who had what Roy called “white lipstick” on.  These pigs were a more aggressive breed that made “clicking noises” as a defense mechanism. Roy said the noises came from a special gland they have. I wasn’t really intending on seeing pigs, but I am glad that I had such a close encounter. Sure enough, it was 1:00 PM. We had some refreshments and boarded the boat home. 

We were lucky enough to see a humpback whale (ballena) and her baby on the ride back. She was close to the coast. Roy said that this typical behavior now because the whales are better able to protect their babies closer to the shore. The baby whale was being playful at the moment and playing on mom’s mouth. I saw her barnacles as she jumped out of the water! And this wasn’t even part of the tour, just an added bonus of the timeliness of our trip. We also saw some manta rays swim the surface of the water, but, it clearly was in no comparison to the whales. A wow factor added to my day. But, after much discovery I was a tired girl. No vacation is complete without sight-seeing, especially when it takes about 10 hours to get to your destination, I had another excursion planned for tomorrow. The next day were supposed to Cano Island for snorkeling. This night I hung out on the porch with Yami and the Spanish people until it was bedtime, 9:00 PM sounds about right.
 

Early the next day I was informed that the trip to Cano Island had been cancelled due to the water visibility. That was fine with me. I thought it would be a good idea to go explore Drake Bay, the beaches, and get some souvenir shells. So, I ate breakfast and finished the book I was reading (1984) at a relaxed pace. I made sure to apply SPF, packed my bag, and decided to go explore. I first walked along the shoreline until it was impossible to go any further due to the jagged, rocky coast. I found a sand dollar, inside of a large strong conch shell, and innumerable pearly mussel shells. I was so excited about the sand dollar I was nearly screaming to myself. Then, I back tracked to a pathway that said it would lead to beaches. I had to walk across rusted suspended bridges, on top on tires (to hold the ground in place), and up make-shift muddy hills (makeshift because the tree roots had done an amazing job at creating stairs).  Now, I had developed my skills at identifying animals by listening. I heard macaws and looked up to see about 6 talking to each other with their long bright tails overlapping the branches. I tried to get it on film, but it’s virtually impossible. I just lived out the moment as best as I could. I ventured about 25 minutes further to find a deserted beach- all to myself! I explored it a bit, but, mostly I just sat there enjoying the vitamin D and view. Conscious of falling coconuts (seriously), I stayed on the beach without anything to write on or anything to read. I was just completely happy in my surroundings for about three hours until the tide decided my spot should be part of the ocean. Around 2:00 PM my stomach growled so I thought with no more beach left it would a good idea to head into the town (pueblo). I had to backtrack my steps across bridges, mud, creeks, and uphill to find the small tourist driven town of Drake Bay. There were probably about 3 restaurants, a hostile, a bar, and tourist centers for snorkeling, diving, etc. At around 3:00 PM I couldn’t find any open restaurants! So, parched beyond belief because I had now ran out of water, I made it back to Casa Horizonte and probably drank about a liter of water as soon and I hiked up the massive hill and made it into the kitchen. That night I had dinner with the Spanish people indoors because the rainy season claimed the porch where we typically dined. I had garlic bread, salad, and vegetable lasagna. It was honestly some of the best food I have had in Costa Rica. For desert, I had tres leches cake. Tres leches cake is soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream. When butter is not used, the tres leches is a very light cake, with many air bubbles. This distinct texture is why it does not have a soggy consistency, despite being soaked in a mixture of three types of milk. I slept well with a full stomach and unforgettable memories.

The next morning was my departure. I was awake at 5:30 AM and showered. I had breakfast before 7:00 AM and thanked Yami and her family for everything they had done for me while I stayed with them in this acutely magical place. Yami’s husband, Pedro, helped me with my bag and escorted me to the shore where I and many other tourists waited for the boats to take us from Drake Bay back to Sierpe.


 I feel very fortunate that I am able to travel. I am in awe of most all of the sights I have seen particularly on this trip. It’s astonishing to consider that there are remote parts of the world that people inhabit and though, they can remain untouched by civilization, I am more drawn to these foreign experiences because it is here that I learn the most about other peoples and myself.