La Fortuna y Volcan Arenal

After (or during) our Manuel Antonio adventure Giles and I decided our fate. Costa Rica had not worked out for a plethora of reasons that will be mentioned later. Timing was of the essence because we were on a tourist visa and needed to exit the country by August 29, 2011. So, we now had one week left in Costa Rica.

A volcano and holding a sloth were top priority for me. Giles also had wanted to hike a volcano so we decided we would take care of some things and go hike the volcano at the end of the week. Our time in Costa Rica grew extremely short and Giles became deterred by the rain, so I decided to travel to the infamous La Fortuna and Volcan Arenal by myself.

Arenal Volcano (Volcán Arenal) is an active stratovolcano in north-western Costa Rica around 90 km northwest of San Jose, in the province of Alajuela, canton of San Carlos, and district of La Fortuna. The Arenal volcano measures at least 1,633 meters (5,358 ft). It is conically shaped with a crater spanning 140 meters (460 ft). Arenal is geologically considered a young volcano and the age is estimated to be less than 7,000 years. The volcano was dormant for hundreds of years and exhibited a single crater at its summit covered by dense vegetation. In 1968 it erupted unexpectedly, destroying the small town of Tabacón. Due to the eruption three more craters were created on the western flanks but only one of them still exists today. Arenal is Costa Rica's most active volcano, and one of the ten most active volcanoes in the world. It has been studied by seismologists for many years. Although the activity nowadays is less damaging, you can still see ash columns, underground rumbling, glowing orange lava flows and sudden explosions on a daily basis. With its perfect conicalshape it allows breathtaking views of volcanic action in the summit. Almost every night the crater offers a spectacle of lights with its explosive eruptions. The temperature varies from 16 °C (61 °F) in the high areas to 24 °C (75 °F) in the low areas and the annual rainfall is around 500 centimeters (200 in). Arenal Volcano area is an important watershed for the Arenal Lake Reservoir. The reservoir's water is used for hydroelectric power. It is also connected to the national system.

Early Friday morning I left to have one great last adventure and see some natural beauty that I wouldn’t be able to find in the States. My online efforts indicated that the bus from San Jose to La Fortuna would leave at 8:40 AM or 6ish AM (entirely too early). I left Escazú at 7:00 AM and got into the Coca Cola of San Jose at approximately 7:30 AM. Per usual with my trips, I waste no time searching for these terminals. I find it better to pay a taxi and at least pretend like I have been living in Costa Rica for a while so as not to get ripped off. I arrived at Terminal Atlantico Norte very early, I thought. I would have enough time to get a café con leche and relax before heading onto the bus. Wrong! For the first time, all my internet research about timing and buses was completely incorrect. When I exited from the taxi a man at the bus station asked me where I was going. I said to La Fortuna. He told me the last bus had left. Somehow in Spanish translation I thought he told me he could take me to meet up with the bus in his taxi. He put me and my luggage in his car and we made small talk. He asked me if I like to dance and what I like about Costa Rica. Then, he put me on the phone with who I thought was the bus driver who said he would wait for me. We drove through San Jose and I had the thought in the back f my mind that he would drop me off any minute then he drove on the Pista (highway). He told me that my fare would be $80 when a 4 and ½ hour bus ride from San Jose to La Fortuna would be $4. I said no and pull over. He told me that for that short ride I would owe him 20,000 colones ($40). I gave him $10 while he looked at me with dismay. I said you can take it or I will take it with me. He asked me to get out of his car. So, I did.

I waited on the side of the highway with many other Costa Ricans as innumerable buses stopped by about every five minutes, mostly going to Alajuela. I had to wait about 40 minutes for the La Fortuna bus. Needless to say, it was not a directo. But, no one was on it at this point so I had chosen a window seat and quickly fallen asleep. When I awoke the bus was packed even with many people standing. My surroundings were unreal. The best way I could describe it was a green lush and hilly landscape with architecture that looked like it was straight from a Dr. Seuss children’s book. I had no idea where I was. I only knew that I had been sleeping for about an hour or two. I pulled out the map I pasted in my journal to grasp an idea where I was or how far away I was from my final destination. I do get nervous on these buses that aren’t direct because you have no way of knowing exactly where you are if you have never been there before. I asked a woman sitting next to me and she said that we were not far from San Carlos. Perfect! I hadn’t missed the stop. I really do enjoy riding the buses in Costa Rica the landscapes are absolutely beautiful (and almost not able to be fully understood). So, leaving my home in Escazú at 7:00 AM I finally arrived in La Fortuna after 1:30 PM.

As is tradition in Costa Rica, I was immediately solicited as soon as my feet hit the ground in La Fortuna for hotels and excursions. I hadn’t even had a drink today! I politely told my solicitors I had a place to stay and food and drink were first on my agenda. I ended up at a coffee shop in the centro of the town. Although it was rainy season this day had been simply sunny and gorgeous. I drank my coffee and watched all the tourists (mostly) and locals go about their day. This town seemed very touristy, but, it made me feel more comfortable and safe.

My hotel, Las Colinas, was in the center of the town and very easy to find right off the main street. I checked in a little early with a very friendly English-speaking receptionist. She gave me a book of excursion suggestions, but suggested I hike the volcano today because it was such a nice (and clear) day. I took her suggestion and booked the 3:00 tour. I was led to my room by an equally friendly hotel worker.  As she led me upstairs there was a gorgeous view of the volcano on the roof patio area. My room had two beds, air conditioning, and a balcony with a hammock! I was totally not expecting a balcony with a hammock, but this just added immense value to my $29/night stay including breakfast. I showered since my bus ride and day had been long and sweaty and got changed for the hike to Volcan Arenal.

I was picked up by a tour bus with three other tall light-haired Austrians. They had been vacationing all over Latin America. They started in Panama, now were in Costa Rica with destinations of Manuel Antonio and Monetverde, and the following week were headed to Nicaragua. They seemed cool and we chatted about Costa Rica, the U.S., and Europe. They seemed pretty interested in the fact that I had been to Europe a few times.

The tour guide, like many people living in La Fortuna I noticed that he was not from there, but moved due to work opportunity. Before this, he had been giving tours on the Caribbean side. He has moved to La Fortuna over a year ago for clearly, a job in tourism. He had a great knowledge of the history of the volcano, except he told us that the volcano has been inactive since 2010. Most Ticos whom I told after said that he had it wrong. If this is so, apparently all the websites I visited did, too.

Regardless of his (inadequate) knowledge, we explored a lagoon with stagnant water and mosquitoes a plenty. We also almost stepped on a baby black turtle that was smaller than my fist. But, the guide assisted it to the water so that the unfortunate wouldn’t happen later. The Austrians and I hiked for about 45 minutes to beautiful panoramic views of the volcano and Lake Arenal in the distance. It was not permitted to hike any further due to the volcano’s activity (not sure if my guide knew and digested this information).  We took some pictures together and relished in great views. The Austrians even decided to add to the value of the views by smoking cigarettes with permission from our guide.

Afterwards, the Austrians went to Baldi Hot Springs. I had a hot springs experience once before in New Zealand. There it seemed more like a resort than an actual well-being experience. So, I decided to skip the hot springs and save the money for food and/or another excursion. So, I was dropped off at my hotel where I got showered and changed for dinner. I hadn’t eaten all day so I was even surprised I had enough energy to do the hike. But, I was thankful they did provide water on the hike.

I was recommended to go to a Soda on the corner near my hotel, and knowing that I would be leaving the country soon I decided to eat typical Costa Rican dishes. I asked for a refresco natural, but was given an iced tea. No big deal, it was only $1. So, I ordered a vegetarian casado. A casado (Spanish, "married man") is a Costa  Rican meal consisting of rice, black beans, plantains, salad, and a tortilla, and an optional entrée that may include chicken, beef, pork, and so on. The term originated when restaurant customers asked to be treated as casados, since married men ate such meals at home. Casados are usually god and filling, but, by no means are they the most delicious meals you have ever eaten.

Feeling full, I walked home to my hotel room where I laid in the hammock and thought about my time in Costa Rica as well as recreational activities for the following day. I was torn between rock repelling or a canoe ride in Lake Arenal. I thought I should decide over breakfast (desayuno). Breakfast was made to order eggs, gallo pinto (pre-made and microwaved), and toast which had a far too familiar taste of Super Sabanilla, the convenient store adjacent to our house in Escazú. The pinto was OK and the toast I couldn’t even stomach to eat, but I thought it best to fill up on included breakfast. The receptionist was visiting the chef in the dining area. So, I asked him for recommendation on which excursion is better. He told me without hesitation that I must do the rock rappelling.

That was all it took. So, I booked the rock rappelling for 12:00PM. After breakfast I relaxed in my room and in my hammock for a bit and got ready to go.  I have become a light packer since Costa Rica. (But, you would have thought I would have learned my lesson since Europe). This was one of the (only) few times I have been picked up on time. A van with a representative from Pure Trek Canyoning and two other people were inside. We drove about 15 minutes to get to their office where they fed us a “tipico” lunch of rice and beans with a corn tortilla. The other people who joined me on this adventure were friends who had met on a retreat in Los Angeles, CA. They were in search of good places for retreats. The man was a Tico from Costa Rica and the woman was from Los Angeles. The guides told us that they typically have about 40 people on these treks, but due to the rainy season, there were only 3 of us. So, it would take less time. That was fine by me!

After lunch we put our things into lockers that were provided for us and hopped in a van that that dropped us off on a dirt road to our other mode of transportation, a tractor. The tractor carried us up dirt roads with a wagon with our equipment attached at the back of it. It was about a ten minute ride with other guides who had a great reppoire with one another. They made the dynamic of the trip more fun and light. When the tractor arrived to our destination, a covered area where we put on our harnesses, helmets, and gloves. The canyoning consistsed of 5 rappels (4 waterfalls and 1 dry rock face). The dry rock face was the first rappel which just so happened to be the highest one at over 100 feet. Per usual, I became very scared looking down. And I remembered the guide told me that if people take too long to jump when they are scared he will push them. So, I started yelping “Don’t push me”! He didn’t. My adrenaline kicked in which you would think I am a fan of since I like adventurous activities, but ironically I am not. After I did the first rappel the rest were much easier and a lot of fun. The waterfall ones were great! And the water was actually quite warm. The group of guys that assisted us I really enjoyed. They had a great sense of humor and like to play. I would highly recommend this over priced excursion!

When I returned I watched the sun set over the volcano painting the sky with violent pinks and reds. After this breath-taking display I decided I should get something to eat. This night I chose not to go to a Soda for any more tipico plates. I wasn’t hungry for anything in particular except good ice cream. So, I decided to get a salty snack of platanos con sal y limon (probably my most favorite fatty pre-packaged snack of Costa Rica). I walked around the centro where a lovely little well-kept park sat. After my salty dehydrating snack from the supermarket I walked to an ice cream shop (heledaria) and got a cup of half coconut (coco) and half cookie (galleta) which happened to be one of the best ice creams I have eaten in Costa Rica! I sat in the park and watched families play ball with their children or just sit and talk.  It was nice to take in this moment and observe this culture so different from my own, but I also had feelings that I didn’t belong there.

I went to bed early, typical of my Costa Rican lifestyle. I woke up and had breakfast the same as the day before. Except on Sunday I now had three pieces of the funky toast when I didn’t even eat one piece initially. For the rest of the morning I sat on the roof finishing a book, Bel Canto, I borrowed from another hotel I had been in. As I sat with Arenal facing me, the sun sitting on my shoulders I felt very happy and grateful for all the moments I had been lucky enough to have.

I showered after reading, packed my things, and checked out of Hotel Colinas. I am sure that I will never go back, but I can recommend this place certainly. This was about the time the clouds rolled in threatening rain. I was too early for the bus so I just sat in the middle of the centro park of La Fortuna reflecting on my time. I like to get to the bus early though knowing that there are only two buses a day and I did want a seat. So, I waited at the bus station not long after for the directo bus. Which I am certain directo now means it directly goes to “X” city, but may or may not stop along the way. Whatever. I was just happy to know that I was on the right bus with a window seat. I love looking out the window on buses in Costa Rica observing the strange unknown land and people right in front of me that I am so curious to. About 5 hours later I arrived in San Jose.