Puerto Viejo!

Happy Independence Day!  We celebrate here too. Well, I didn’t but, with all the Americans (supposedly) living in Escazú and with the fireworks I just heard I would say that someone here from America is celebrating this day.

Celebration is not on the agenda for me. I just came back from visiting Puerto Viejo last night. We heard so much about how this place is so amazing. So we departed from San José at 11:00 AM. We had a pit stop in Limón around 3:00 PM which gave us just enough time to go to the bathroom, grab a refreshment (aloe vera beverage), and snack (chocolate covered strawberry ice cream bar). After re-grouping we headed back o the now scorching bus with no a/c. I didn’t expect  any more for about $8.

When we arrived in Puerto Viejo with just backpacks and wandered our way to Rocking J’s to stay a few nights in our fabulous hammock accommodations. It was about an 800 meter walk from the bus stop to Rocking J’s which could be quite possibly the closet thing I have seen to hippie paradise since Bonnaroo. The “resort” is full of creative ways to spend your vacation time. You can rent a tent, hammock, cabin, or even the owner him self’s room if you so desire (and have enough cash).  The entire place is covered in vacationer’s art work- imaginative and resourceful displays of artistically arranged tiles that describe traveler’s feelings, emotions, country-pride or maybe a “trip” they had. Rocking J does have a unique thing going for him I must admit. If I were about 6 years younger this would have been my haven. But, arriving on a Wednesday after traveling so long on a bus we weren’t up too much for a party. And it seemed that neither was the rest of Puerto Viejo. We went to the beach which was actually a bit rocky and not really good for swimming and decided after a bit to go to our hammocks, shower, and get changed.  We treated ourselves to some dinner and put ourselves to bed early. Despite what you’re thinking the hammocks were quite comfy and sleeping about 50 feet from the ocean lulled us to sleep. 

The next day we were eager to lie on the beach so we walked towards town and found a good spot behind some souvenir vendors, adjacent to a stagnant pool of water, and about 10 feet from the ocean.  The water was colors of dark blues and turquoise, but it’s not the typical Caribbean you picture when you’re fortunate enough to visit the actual Caribbean. There wasn’t so much “scary stuff”- seaweed, sticks, and unidentifiable sea material/animals present, but there was still a little bit. Stray dogs of all sizes and breeds were on the beach too. They would run into the water to play or just cool off. 

On Friday our friend and housemate, Erin showed up with her friend Marcella from Santa Ana. Ironically when Emily and I were walking into town to get some cash out and get a drink we ran right into Erin and Marcella. They suggested we rent bikes and ride to better parts of the beach.  So we rented rusty cruiser bikes for about $5 for 6 hours. We rode our bikes past Rocking J’s towards Manzanilla, but without actually making it that far. This beach was purely reminiscent to me of Australia. This beach was nicer because it was less rocky, but still made it a bit difficult to swim because “tsunami” waves were present. There was about 3 miles to the beach and the safe place to swim spread about 25 feet. Emily went for a swim since she is a fish. I advised that she swim at an angel. I feel asleep on the beach for probably hours waking up only to reapply sunscreen. Emily finally woke me up and said that everyone had gone and it looked like it was going to rain so we probably should return our bikes. In a daze I threw my clothes on over sand encrusted body. We returned the bikes and then decided to have some food. We ate at a little restaurant facing the beach. I wanted to go there initially because I saw them advertise ceviche and I was craving it. But, after looking at the menu we decided to split an avocado salad and I got Sea Bass in Caribbean sauce. The salad was great. In hindsight I should have gotten the ceviche because the Sea Bass was breaded and fried and the sauce was a little too heavy and not nearly as spicy and I typically enjoy. But, it was still good.  So we people watched and doggie watched while it began to rain under our table with a large man-made umbrella. The dogs still played jumping in and out of the stagnant water and the ocean not seeming to even notice the rain. And the tourists kept walking and biking past our view, most of them appearing to be American which was relief for a second, but mostly an annoyance.  There were more people in Puerto Viejo today perhaps because it was Friday.

Saturday turned out to be the best day on vacation in al aspects. Erin and Marcella suggested we rent bikes again and ride to Manzanilla. Marcella suggested that we not leave Puerto Viejo without seeing this beach, so we reluctantly agreed. Not totally impressed by the beaches we didn’t have high expectations for this beach. Through negotiation we rented bikes by Rocking J’s for about $3 for 3 hours. Marcella said it was about a 25 minute bike ride. I am now learning to take time loosely. We biked mostly on unpaved rocky roads for about 45 minutes finally reaching our destination- Manzanilla. We left our bikes with pipa (coconut) and empanada vendors and walked through the forest and up a hill to breath-taking views of Puerto Viejo and crystal clear water with jungle scenery. We sat atop the hill and took it all in for a bit. Now, profusely sweating decided to swim in the beauty. We walked back down the hill and walked along the beach to our own private beach where we swam and collected souvenir rocks and shells. I didn’t really care when we had to go back to return our bikes it was gorgeous. But, then the afternoon rain came and we began to make our way back to our bikes. As a thank you to the vendors for watching our bikes and as a treat to ourselves to purchased the pipas and empanadas. Emily had never had a fresh pipa, so we split one. I even asked the pipa man to cut it open so we can eat the meat of the pipa. He even cut a little spoon from the side of the pipa for us to get the meat out. The meat is soggy and not sweet, not like how many of us picture pipa. Nonetheless, I think it’s delicious.  We rode our bikes back in the rain drenched from head to toe as were most of our things that we brought with us. 

That night we went to EZ times and had some cocktails that were 2 for one and some dinner. This was going to be our ladies night with Marcella, Erin, Emily, and myself. After a long day the drinks made us nothing but tired. Marcella jokingly asked the waiter if there were any beds. He said yes. And he led us upstairs to a private lounge area with cushioned couches all along the walls and tables in the middle. Emily and I were served our dinners- I got gazpacho with grilled shrimp and avocado and Emily had home-made gnocchi. It was delicious. After eating we joined Erin and Marcella in a nap. Around 9 we woke up and decided to go out as it was our last night in Puerto Viejo.  Erin went back to Rocking J’s as she was still feeling tired. We bar-hopped all over Puerto Viejo and ended back at EZ Times which was now transformed into techno dance party. We danced and partied the night away leaving Puerto Viejo on a good note. 

Our vacation is over. It is time to start working so that we can actually live here. I don't think that I will revisit Puerto Viejo, but I am a firm believer in always visiting somewhere new. I am glad we went and am also glad I have a couple days to relax before we start training. It is time to start learning the language and become more serious about what I want to obtain from my time here. Even so, I am grateful for all my experiences that have led me to exactly where I am now.