Montverde cloud forest!

I have finally found it- a place that I love in Costa Rica, Monteverde. It is set atop the spine of Costa Rica’s continental divide. It is known as a place of cloud forests and coffee plantations, monkeys, mist, and friendly locals. The town of Santa Elena is small and quaint, filled with tasty restaurants and folksy artisan shops, while the nearby rainforest hosts a remarkable amount of biodiversity. Due to its high altitude – some 4,662 ft (1,440 m) above sea level – Monteverde is privileged to receive a steady supply of clouds and the life-giving moisture that they contain. This moisture, often in the form of fog, catches on the branches of the tallest trees and drips down to the other organisms below. This helps to support a complex and far-reaching ecosystem, one that harbors over 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds, tens of thousands of insect species, and over 2,500 varieties of plants, 420 of which are orchids alone.

Finding out this information, I thought it would be the perfect little getaway being that I had 4 days off. My roommate, Emily, did not. But, I thought a vacation more geared towards the things I like to do most would be time spent well with my time off. So, I impromptu booked a cheap hotel at the Monteverde Inn for $25 per night including breakfast and hopped on a bus headed there on Thursday morning at 6:30 AM. I left Escazu at 5:00 AM to ensure I would make it to this bus on time, since the next bus wouldn’t depart until the 2:30 PM making my arrival in Monteverde after dark. I made it to Monteverde at around 12:00 PM and even made a local friend on the bus, who claimed to be a tour guide.

When I arrived into Monteverde I took a cab, at the advice of my new friend claiming it was too far to walk from Monteverde centro. For 1,800 colones the cab took me to my new temporary abode, Monteverde Inn. I was greeted by Anthony who anticipated my arrival since I had called a few days early securing a reservation and asking a million questions about arriving there. Even though I was 2 hours early I was permitted to check in and my room was ready for me. He also informed me about the free hiking trails adjacent to the hotel, which I was ecstatic about (free until 4:00 PM when the guided night trails commence). I immediately put away the few things I brought and got changed to start the hike. To my surprise the hike was breath-taking for conception. About 25 feet into the trail a huge tree of intertwined branches and possibily other trees were engulfed by this massive 50 feet tall tree. I followed the outer part of the trail, believing there would be more look outs. And I was right, not too long later, maybe about 15 minutes or so I found a lookout with a great view of the surrounding lushness of all the mountains and valleys. It almost reminded me of Ireland the way the forests (bosque) are so green, but with a Colorado ski town look and tropical feel due to the many palm trees. After the hike I decided to go into Monteverde centro and get some things to eat. I bought bread, juice, and cheese. Cheese is normally a luxury, but in Monteverde because it is produced there it was at an extreme discount- $3 for processed slices! So, I scooped that up. 
  

My plan originally was to visit “The Frog Pond” as recommended by a local friend of Escazu who used to live in Monteverde. He suggested that I visit it at night when all the frogs come out.  So I bought my dinner of bread, cheese, and juice at the grocery store and set-off on foot to visit the frog pond. I saw signs for it, but couldn’t find this pond! Eventually, I came to a commercial building subsequently named, “The Frog Pond”. After searching behind Ticos houses for this place I decided to go in and ask.  The guy behind the counter right away knew I was a gringa and answered me in English and said this was the place I had been looking for. So, for $12 and after walking all that way I decided to take the tour. My tour guide was Franciso, a rather tall and handsome Tico. He spoke English well and abused the word “totally”. He had a gigantic nerd obsession for frogs, and I admire people with passion. He knew everything about mostly Costa Rican frogs. The people here like any other country have a massive love for their country and the animals, products, etc. that are native to it. After the tour, he asked me if I was having drinks sometime this weekend. I said, No, it wasn’t that kind of vacation. With some regret for not at least exchanging numbers, I walked back to my hotel room.

The very next day I made sure to be up and ready before 9:00 AM to take advantage of the free breakfast. Anthony made me fruits- papaya, pineapple, and bananas accompanied by granola with milk. I also had two cups of café con leche. I sat outside with my café con leche and saw a man go inside the dining room. He came back out with two café con leches in to-go cups. I heard him speak in English and asked him where he was from. Instinctively, he answered America. I said “I know, where?”. He told me that he and his wife are from Virginia and were doing the canopy tour that afternoon. The canopy tour included a zipline and tour of bridges. After feeling a sense of general camaraderie I told him that I just might join them on their tour. I spoke with Anthony, who highly recommended the canopy tour. So, at the last minute I joined the group. Transportation to the cloud forest would come at 10:20 AM. So, I got my things together and went. A tourismo (tourist) shuttle picked us up at our hotel along with many other tourists from different hotels interested in the canopy tour.

At the park, we paid for our tours (yes, I still receive student discounts- thanks, Philly U) and quickly were dressed in harnesses and helmets. We were “trained” on what we should do- sit down with your knees up and legs crossed, hold on with one hand, hold the line (to slow yourself down) with the other hand. The lines were secure by being wrapped and drilled around the trees with metal bolts. Piece of mind in regard to safety- right. The guides referred to me as “Christina Aguilera”. I refer to myself as Kristina anymore since Kristen is simply too hard for many Ticos to say. They straight away clip your carabineer and attach your pulley to the line and send you on your way. I was definitely scared on the first 6 or 12 lines. The first one was short only about 25 feet long. Once you made it across you were instantly clipped again and pushed onto the second line. I liked this approach because I didn’t have to have the fear marinate while I waited to do the next line. Some of the lines were about 1 kilometer long and about 300 feet above the cloud forest. It literally felt like you were a bird just scraping the tops of the trees. It was definitely one of the best experiences of my life. Though, I am not a fan of adrenaline rushes anymore and I am not sure if I ever was really a fan, this was quite a rush. I am positive that ziplining anywhere else in the world would not compare to this. Hence, this comes highly recommended! After zipling, I did a tarzan swing. It was a rope attached to your harness that you jumped from about 75 feet from the ground. The initial free fall was scary, but swinging was quite fun! 

Then we explored all the abundance of suspension bridges that hung amidst the gorgeous canopy (which were almost as frightening as the zipline!) that were adjoined to the trees in a similar fashion as the zipline rig. Most of them were bright turqoiuse and witnessing the tree tops from hundreds of feet or more! I had a most wonderful day with new friends and adventures. 

That evening I had my first sushi experience in Costa Rica. I ordered a roll- to be safe. I now forget the name of the roll, but it came with tuna and avocado atop. In the middle was cream cheese and cucumber. After dinner, my new friends from Virgina, Ryan and Miriam, went to the local bar amigos for literally one drink. The music played and we had great conversation- usually involving spirituality topics (maybe it’s the friends I am attracting or this is a very popular topic in Costa Rica). We went back to the hotel and watched the stars start to come out. Ryan has a great app called “Google Sky”. It names the constellations in the sky by pointing your smart device to the area of interest. A very great day came to an end with me falling fast asleep in my bed after having my fill of nature.

On Saturday, I suggested that we do the Monteverde Reserve. It was also recommended by my friend from Escazu, Manea. We shoved complimentary breakfast down our holes around 7:30 AM and drove up to the reserve. We couldn’t get a guide for the reserve since we arrived late- Tico time. Without hesitation, we decided it would be fine to guide ourselves. We went to “Las ventannas” (the windows) of the reserve. This morning had been particularly cloudy and seemed to threaten rain. We hiked up to the top windows. The view was hardly visible due to the thick clouds that rolled in. Also, the wind was the harshed I have experienced in Costa Rica. It was almost frightening because one wrong step or fall and you could very well be over that edge and experiencing the clouds and valley below first hand. We hiked for about two hours then decided we had our fill, ironically when the clouds retreated and sun came out. We got coffee at Café Monteverde, a renowned brand of coffee in Costa Rica. We even picked up some souvenir coffee to bring home (yes, Dad, I am thinking about you!).

coatil

We went back to Monteverde Inn and sat facing the most amazing view of the cloud forest when a hungry coatil appeared! He looked like he was in search of a meal or a large snack. I think they look like a mix between a raccoon and an anteater. Maybe that siting sparked our ambition to hike by our Inn that I had been talking about it for a while. The couple was enthusiastic about the hike from the commencement. Ryan has a little obsession with trees I would contemplate. They loved the views. With them, I had completed more of the hike than by myself. We were hiking by the “Big Tree” when we heard shuffling in the trees. I thought it was the sounds made the awkward and fat black guans. 

Capuchin monkey

We were pleasantly surprised. It turned out that it was a Capuchin monkey eating leaves on the tree tops. My friends as quick as they could they grabbed their video recorder. Suddenly, the Capuchin monkey had a playmate. The two monkeys were playing with each other- pushing one another out of the tree hole and chasing each other atop the trees as if it were as easy as running on pavement. I am sure they were aware of our presence and didn’t seem to mind. In fact, they seemed curious to us. We watched them until they run from our sight. A truly remarkable experience! Afterwards, I decided a nap was needed after waking up pretty much against my own will. I had dinner with my new friends at a very “Tico” place. We had casados, tacos, etc. I ordered a “Mora Fresca Naturale”. It is basically frozen blackberries that are blended with water and ice to make a smoothie. After dinner, we went back to the resort for our new hobby of talking and watching the stars. We chatted and watched the clouds move to change the visibility of the stars until I was too tired.

This morning, Ryan, Miriam, and I had our final breakfast at the Monteverde Inn. I ventured beyond my usual granola and fruits. Today, I had toast, eggs, and fruits. Ryan and Miriam graciously offered me a ride from Monteverde to Escazu, claiming that it was on their way anyway and we had become pretty good friends by the finish of the trip. They were on their way to Manuel Antonio before heading back to the United States on Wednesday. So, we had breakfast and got on the road. The decent from Monteverde is one of the best parts of the trip.

I will never forget Monteverde, the kind and hospitable people I met there- Tico or not, the animals and plants I had been fortunate enough to see, or the memories I will keep forever. I genuinely love this place and though I am not a fan or returning back to a place I have visited once before I would definitely consider it!

Playa Flamingo

I returned from Playa Flamingo a week ago today. Though, late, I still prefer to describe my first time on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Playa Flamingo is located in the providence of Guanacaste, which is well-known for its beautiful beaches. The closest city is Tamarindo, probably about a twenty minute car ride to the south. It is pretty isolated, except for equally distant small beach towns a drive away.

We stayed at Playa Flamingo Beach Resort which is a four star resort. No, I usually don’t travel in such high class but, a friend from Philadelphia sent me a Groupon.com link for 50% off the usual price. So, Emily and I were fortunate enough to stay at this luxurious resort for $45.50 per night combined. From San Jose, it took us about 4 hours to get to Santa Cruz. From Santa Cruz we took a local bus that circled around every town from there to Playa Flamingo which took an additional 2 hours, though the bus cost us about $3. 

Our rooms we’re ready because we had arrived before 2:00 PM so we stopped at an adjacent restaurant to our resort ironically called, “Marie’s” (ironic because I am now missing my mom, Marie). We had some drinks and split some bocas- yucca fries, ceviche, quesadilla con jalapenos. Then we headed back to the hotel and checked into our rooms. It was typical of a resort that catered to Americans- picturesque huts to get drinks and food beneath and a large pool with white lounge chairs strategically and neatly laid besides the pool. We immediately got changed into our bathing suits and went down to concierge to ask about the all-inclusive. For $60 per day for a minimum of two day we decided that the all-inclusive would probably be a bargain. Jose, at the concierge, was even kind enough to allow us to start the all-inclusive that day- Thursday. So, we swam up to the bar and had some typical overpriced vacation drinks- Miami Vices and (drinks subsequently named) Pura Vidas. It was amazing how Americans were so common to this resort. And after hearing Spanish so much the loud demanding voices of Americans stuck out severely. We met some Brasilians and I chatted with the little Portuguese and broken English that they knew. We even hung out with them after the pool, but we all became lost in translation so Emily and I had dinner in the resort not long after. After a busy day of traveling and treating our bellies to as much food as we could see, an early night was prevalent.

The next day we took advantage of our all-inclusive breakfast. It included pinto de gallo (literally translated this means spotted rooster, but it is rice and beans with cilantro, fruits, yogurt, juices infused with lots of sugar, sweet breads (not brains, literally breads that are sugarified), toast, sachlicon, eggs, etc. Pinto de gallo is part of a very sustainable breakfast and plus eating rice for breakfast is something I particularly enjoy.  I placed a huge mound of pinto on my plate with fried cheese. The fried cheese almost looked like deep-fried tofu and can taste like mozzarella sticks. I also helped myself to a large bowl of fruit and yogurt. To wash it all down I usually require at least two cups of café con leche (hot milk). With Emily and the view of the ocean not too far away it was a nice breakfast. After stuffing ourselves we decided it was a good idea to change into our bathing suite and take advantage of the pool. We got some drinks and swam in the pool while chatting with many Americans on vacation at this resort. We found a woman from North Carolina who knew Dr. Paul Farmer from “Mountains beyond Mountains”. The story traces the life of physician and anthropologist Paul Farmer who has ties with Haiti. She treated us to dinner with her family at a restaurant on the beach. Most of the dinners in Playa Flamingo were unfortunately not that good. Although we all ordered different kinds of fish they all looked the same and tasted similar. After dinner we had some drinks at our resort.

At 12:00 midnight on my birthday, per my request, we headed to the beach and swam in the ocean. The ocean was dark, but very warm. No mysterious objects or seaweed was rampant throughout the ocean which made it more comfortable for me. The sky was completely clear- very few and far between during the rainy season. We swam past the breaker under a blanket of stars and unknown constellations. It was one of my best birthday’s ever. I find so much happiness in nature, specifically stars.

The next two days we alternated between being beach bums and ocean bums- taking cover when it rained in the late afternoons. We also made sure to sit on the beach for every sunset since the Pacific is obviously known for its gorgeous sunsets. However, the mosquitoes were quite a hindrance. They found any and all ways to attack my Italian blood even through cloth. 

It was nice to feel lavish at a resort, but it takes away from experiencing the culture. We learned that it is better for us at least to be accommodated in smaller hotels where we can obtain more about the culture. But, it’s also nice to pamper yourself every once in a while. After the last two beach vacations I am wanting to experience more natural areas of Costa Rica like mountains, rainforests, cloud forests, and volcanoes. So, to fulfill my nature side those are goals of mine while I am a tourist in this beautiful place consequently called Costa Rica.

Los cambios se producen cuando vamos en contra de todo lo que estamos acostumbrados a hacer

Ever so slowly, my new room is coming together. When Emily and I first arrived to 25 metros sur de Super Sabanilla (our legitimate physical address that you cannot actually send mail to) we were supremely impressed by our (then) temporary abode. It sits in the hills of San Antonio de Escazú in a gated community. There are a total of five houses in our community, three of which are occupied. Ours, in particular, is special because of the little plot of land consumed with vegetation and a small creek beside it. The house is only one level with four rooms- kitchen, bathroom, living room/bedroom (Emily’s room), and a large storage room.

The storage room was absolutely disgusting. It contained a large chair that our former roommate’s cats had pissed on, boxes of random things, ropes crisscrossed from either sides of the room to hang laundry from, and quite possibly had never been cleaned or occupied. It smelled like musty basement mixed with rainforest. The smell is still there since some of the floor is dirt, but it has improved dramatically. 

After Erin, the person who invited us to stay with her until we found somewhere to live, but, incidentally we ended up taking over her place, left to go to Honduras, the serious casita makeover had begun. I cleaned out the entire room; getting ride of everything that was left there that had been forgotten about or no longer cared for. It took a lot of courage to use the broomstick to ride the crevices and ceilings of the massive spider webs, more often than not, with large alive spiders still attached. I also cleaned the windows which had spider cadavers and webs that were worked on so well they were almost like fabric. I also painted the walls with a mente (mint) green purchased from Wal-mart for about 3,300 colones per gallon (about $6-7). And, yes, most of the grocery stores are owned by Wal-mart and Wal-mart itself is new and glorious to the Ticos. In addition, I had to spackle the spider holes and paint over them. One corner of the room requires a bit more effort. It appears that perhaps a sink was once desired to be placed there, but never completed. In this area the cement is messy and a favorite place for spiders. So, with all my creative efforts I have decided to mosaic it with random pieces of tiles I have been collecting from the neighborhood. I have used caulking glue, but spackle seems to be less messy. This will be my ever long in-progress task. 

Earlier last week we had a “foam” guy recommended to me by a new friend in Costa Rica come to take a look at our project room. His job would be to seal all the areas in the room that are exposed to the outside world. Also, he could seal the cracks on the sides of the cement and fill the area of the floor that is open to the elements as well. He hasn’t been exactly easy to get a hold of. I had been trying to contact him for a couple of weeks before he came. He is an American from Texas, I believe. He said that he wouldn’t be the cheapest route because he would probably charge $100, but could do the entire job. After sleeping in the same bed and in the same room with Emily for a few months now, I don’t mind. But, once the room is sealed it will become livable. I would like to get this done so I can have my own room. There would also be no need to get any more materials to seal the floor and do things ourselves, so I think he would be worth it. In true Tico fashion he said he would come back to measure and give us an exact price, but is away in Tamarindo for the next ten days. That’s fine because we are going away Thursday of this week to Playa Flamingo on the Pacific side for a little vacation and to celebrate my 27^th birthday (on Saturday). 

Things happen when there are meant to happen here. Many times things even in your control surprisingly only happen when they are ready to. I am learning patience and acceptance here which I am reminded of everyday. We will be approaching a month of living here and everything is coming together slowly. The less you have the more you appreciate the little you do. It’s wonderful to have a great cheap (we pay $150/month each, including utilities and internet) rustic little casita that we really like. Progress is happening!

Chica trabajadora

It is officially my second week as a teacher. Currently, I am only teaching two classes. One of my classes is for a private company ironically (and not so surprising for this country) called Acme. Acme is located at Forum, which is business complex that is very beautiful in Santa Ana. I really enjoy teaching there because I like my students, most seem motivated and already have a pretty decent vocabulary, but just may need some more help with sentence structure and grammar. However, they are all very busy with work, graduate degrees, and personal lives. I think they want to succeed in English for their company and also for the betterment of themselves. I have much admiration for the students who are personally encouraged.

My second class is a public class located at inlingua in San Pedro. This was the first class I shadowed and had I known that I would be taking over this class I would have probably paid more attention (and taken many more notes). They don’t seem as motivated as my Acme class though they are on a much higher level conversationally. We learn more about business rather than the everyday of English which has something to do with the nature of their jobs. 

As a native speaker of English teaching the language I know so well isn’t very hard because I know it. However, my students will always find a way to challenge me and question me on the perpetually oddities of the rules. For instance, last week in Acme we were learning much versus many. I taught what I knew- many is used for countable numbers (How many dogs are there in the park?) versus much which is used for uncountable numbers (Is there much coffee left?). A favorite student of mine asked, “Why do you ask how much money do you have? Don’t you count money? Shouldn’t it be How many money do you have?”. He was right. We do count money (and we also count time). Exceptions to rules exist as expected. We only know this because we grew up speaking this intricate language which I am now appreciating more than ever.  Attempting to explain this to non-native English speakers is somewhat of a challenge when all you really want to say is that is just the way it is (which is correct on many levels).

I never realized (or valued) that English has so many descriptors and ways of saying things, which as a writer I am grateful for. I also didn’t realize how much I like grammar. I think it goes back to when I was in sixth grade and had Sister Roberta for English class (many of my long-term friends could certainly defend me on this). She had us memorize the eight parts of speech in elaborate detail (including all the prepositions, etc. much of which I still can remember today). I am indebted to her now that I am a much more qualified teacher and I like explaining and knowing language rules. I have much more to learn which the process of life is, but due to my vast background I know it will only help me.

Every week here is something new and unexpected. Teaching is something I never really thought I would do though I have been told numerous times that I should consider it. I am glad to have this amazing opportunity from a plethora of upsetting unforeseen circumstances and time will only tell what is next.

Sólo algunas reflexiones

I just had some thoughts occur to me while perpetually on a bus heading somewhere besides Escazú. As we sat on the bus from San Antonio de Escazú to Escazú Centro I noticed that all the people sitting on the bus were quite, even when speaking to one another. There were no loud stereos, no obnoxious loud people talking to themselves or asking you for money. Everyone was orderly despite the usual crazy bus ride that pretty much always guarantees a head jerk due to the bus driver pulling out in front of traffic then realizing he can’t make it and slamming on the breaks.  Even before this while the gardner, Miguel was just doing the usual upkeep within the time gated community (5 houses, 3 of which are occupied) in which we live. Even though it's technically not in his job, he offered to put up a hammock in our adjacent yard area. We were ecstatic! We also have a hammock chair that Erin had left here. We asked him to put up this hammock chair as well. He was very eager and willing and seemed to easily attach it to the trees with wire. Miguel and the other gardeners even gave us a new door with keys. It’s amazing how nice some people are here. This makes me consider the United States. It reminds me of basically what I’ve been taught in MBA (to be an ethical person in business). I think Miguel will never be rewarded (monetarily) because he has helped the very limited speaking Gringas with some things around the house because we will not be able to tell the Spanish speaking land lady how kind he was. He simply did these kind acts because he is like most of these people. Hopefully, we will learn more Spanish to eventually sincerely thank him (and maybe ask for some more household help). The Ticos are polite and benevolent people who sometimes do very considerate actions for you that mean so much. Another instance is a friend we met in Puerto Viejo. He not only gave us a 4 hour ride home from Puerto Viejo, but also, let us do our laundry at his home less than a week later. 

I compare my experiences much to the States because it’s all I’ve really ever known (and a 6 month stay in Australia which is very similar to the U.S.).  I do not think I will experience such caring people like this anywhere else. And I also think how ironic it is to go to MBA classes to learn something which you already should know and not have to learn how to become- if that is even possible. Though things are not always organized and efficient, this place is a nice refreshment of how amazing occurrences can come from nothing at all.

P.S. ¡Feliz Cumpleaños a mi madre! ¡Besitos y abrazos!

clase obrera

I finally became (not so gainfully) employed! This is my first job since January. Why is it easier to get a job in another country than in the United States right now? Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t exactly a piece of cake. But, I know that if I was back in the states now I would be under some underpaid desk job hating my life and sporadically sneaking on Facebook. I do have some friends back home in crummy jobs that don’t have the opportunity of advancement or higher pay, but they need a job. I have other friends who don’t have a job at all and are struggling with a college education just to get a retail job whilst still trying to paying their student loans. On the contrary, I have a few very lucky friends who have jobs they like and are making a decent pay and actually enjoying what they do. I am so happy for those people. I hope that even if I don’t get paid a ridiculous salary I hope to find something I really like doing. It’s definitely a factor in why I tried this. 

So, after a month long TESOL training and two separate job interviews I have been officially (word of mouth) hired. Inlingua has made us attend 4 days of 4 hour (or so) interview/training. On the first day there were seven of us present. We watched videos about Inlingua’s methodology and learned what they expected as well as about Inlingua itself. On the second day we had to make a 2 minute teaching demonstration using five vocabulary words. Two kids from North Carolina who took TESOL training on Nosara beach were first up. Regretfully, each didn’t do so well and I am pretty sure it’s due to the poor training. I followed them and had the most difficult vocabulary with words like “democracy “ and “saber-rattling”. I sucked. But, in comparison to the North Carolina kids I was better. So I thought that’s good, at least. The very next day we were told we would have to do the same presentation. But, we had to actually do a teaching demo. It was from real Inlingua books. The North Carolina kids simultaneously wrote Corey, our boss, an email stating that they weren’t good candidates. And Corey, from the start was right. In the beginning of the training he said that he had too many people and that it would work itself out. That day Corey also told us that the remaining of us was hired.  Such a relief! We had the last of our training today, Saturday. We shadowed current teachers of Inlingua. I followed Byran from Kansas City. He has been here for a year now and is returning home on Monday. Bryan just graduated from College last year and knew he wasn’t going to be able to get a job (he thought) so decided to take a year off and do this. He also studied abroad in Fortuna here in college. So, he is now fluent in the language. When he gets home to Kansas he is planning on going back to school (typical of our economy). It was good to shadow a teacher, but it was the wrong day for it. As class began there was a test given. It was probably almost 2 hours long. After the test a new lesson was begun. They were level 3A, an advanced class, so they had vocabulary like “upgrade” and “modernization” and had grammar like first and second conditionals. The teaching felt more natural like conversation rather than teaching. I think is probably going to be highly effective, but still no good until in actual use.  I begin teaching on Monday and yes, I am a bit nervous. However, I feel more comfortable after witnessing a class and seeing how easy and effortless it can be. I hope I can be a good teacher. More importantly, I hope my students do learn from me.

In the Costa Rican culture there is a phrase said multiple times daily that is the brand to their country, “Pura Vida”. Literally translated it means “Pure Life”. I can’t exactly translate what it means because it has several definitions and is used in a plethora of situations. For example in Puerto Viejo it is used as you’re welcome which they used at the end of every sentence. Young guys will pass you in the night with flyers for bars and as you say no gracias they automatically respond “Pura Vida”. So, in this case it seems more nonchalant and so habitual. It is also used as a greeting and farewell. So, if you travel to Puerto Viejo this word will definitely penetrate to your memory. In more city areas like San Pedro and Escazú it is used infrequently and more often than not randomly  thrown into conversation when talking about Costa Rican lifestyle. Or it is used to express satisfaction. For example, if you are talking about something positive a friend might add “Pura Vida” which here I think can mean “cool” or “this is living!”. In my own life I think of Pura Vida every day. It is how I feel now as I type with the sun indicating its about to go down, water flowing in a stream beside me, sounds of birds and dogs in the air, and the green lushness swallowing me .Here in the origin of Pura Vida I am internalizing the true meaning of this word.

Puerto Viejo!

Happy Independence Day!  We celebrate here too. Well, I didn’t but, with all the Americans (supposedly) living in Escazú and with the fireworks I just heard I would say that someone here from America is celebrating this day.

Celebration is not on the agenda for me. I just came back from visiting Puerto Viejo last night. We heard so much about how this place is so amazing. So we departed from San José at 11:00 AM. We had a pit stop in Limón around 3:00 PM which gave us just enough time to go to the bathroom, grab a refreshment (aloe vera beverage), and snack (chocolate covered strawberry ice cream bar). After re-grouping we headed back o the now scorching bus with no a/c. I didn’t expect  any more for about $8.

When we arrived in Puerto Viejo with just backpacks and wandered our way to Rocking J’s to stay a few nights in our fabulous hammock accommodations. It was about an 800 meter walk from the bus stop to Rocking J’s which could be quite possibly the closet thing I have seen to hippie paradise since Bonnaroo. The “resort” is full of creative ways to spend your vacation time. You can rent a tent, hammock, cabin, or even the owner him self’s room if you so desire (and have enough cash).  The entire place is covered in vacationer’s art work- imaginative and resourceful displays of artistically arranged tiles that describe traveler’s feelings, emotions, country-pride or maybe a “trip” they had. Rocking J does have a unique thing going for him I must admit. If I were about 6 years younger this would have been my haven. But, arriving on a Wednesday after traveling so long on a bus we weren’t up too much for a party. And it seemed that neither was the rest of Puerto Viejo. We went to the beach which was actually a bit rocky and not really good for swimming and decided after a bit to go to our hammocks, shower, and get changed.  We treated ourselves to some dinner and put ourselves to bed early. Despite what you’re thinking the hammocks were quite comfy and sleeping about 50 feet from the ocean lulled us to sleep. 

The next day we were eager to lie on the beach so we walked towards town and found a good spot behind some souvenir vendors, adjacent to a stagnant pool of water, and about 10 feet from the ocean.  The water was colors of dark blues and turquoise, but it’s not the typical Caribbean you picture when you’re fortunate enough to visit the actual Caribbean. There wasn’t so much “scary stuff”- seaweed, sticks, and unidentifiable sea material/animals present, but there was still a little bit. Stray dogs of all sizes and breeds were on the beach too. They would run into the water to play or just cool off. 

On Friday our friend and housemate, Erin showed up with her friend Marcella from Santa Ana. Ironically when Emily and I were walking into town to get some cash out and get a drink we ran right into Erin and Marcella. They suggested we rent bikes and ride to better parts of the beach.  So we rented rusty cruiser bikes for about $5 for 6 hours. We rode our bikes past Rocking J’s towards Manzanilla, but without actually making it that far. This beach was purely reminiscent to me of Australia. This beach was nicer because it was less rocky, but still made it a bit difficult to swim because “tsunami” waves were present. There was about 3 miles to the beach and the safe place to swim spread about 25 feet. Emily went for a swim since she is a fish. I advised that she swim at an angel. I feel asleep on the beach for probably hours waking up only to reapply sunscreen. Emily finally woke me up and said that everyone had gone and it looked like it was going to rain so we probably should return our bikes. In a daze I threw my clothes on over sand encrusted body. We returned the bikes and then decided to have some food. We ate at a little restaurant facing the beach. I wanted to go there initially because I saw them advertise ceviche and I was craving it. But, after looking at the menu we decided to split an avocado salad and I got Sea Bass in Caribbean sauce. The salad was great. In hindsight I should have gotten the ceviche because the Sea Bass was breaded and fried and the sauce was a little too heavy and not nearly as spicy and I typically enjoy. But, it was still good.  So we people watched and doggie watched while it began to rain under our table with a large man-made umbrella. The dogs still played jumping in and out of the stagnant water and the ocean not seeming to even notice the rain. And the tourists kept walking and biking past our view, most of them appearing to be American which was relief for a second, but mostly an annoyance.  There were more people in Puerto Viejo today perhaps because it was Friday.

Saturday turned out to be the best day on vacation in al aspects. Erin and Marcella suggested we rent bikes again and ride to Manzanilla. Marcella suggested that we not leave Puerto Viejo without seeing this beach, so we reluctantly agreed. Not totally impressed by the beaches we didn’t have high expectations for this beach. Through negotiation we rented bikes by Rocking J’s for about $3 for 3 hours. Marcella said it was about a 25 minute bike ride. I am now learning to take time loosely. We biked mostly on unpaved rocky roads for about 45 minutes finally reaching our destination- Manzanilla. We left our bikes with pipa (coconut) and empanada vendors and walked through the forest and up a hill to breath-taking views of Puerto Viejo and crystal clear water with jungle scenery. We sat atop the hill and took it all in for a bit. Now, profusely sweating decided to swim in the beauty. We walked back down the hill and walked along the beach to our own private beach where we swam and collected souvenir rocks and shells. I didn’t really care when we had to go back to return our bikes it was gorgeous. But, then the afternoon rain came and we began to make our way back to our bikes. As a thank you to the vendors for watching our bikes and as a treat to ourselves to purchased the pipas and empanadas. Emily had never had a fresh pipa, so we split one. I even asked the pipa man to cut it open so we can eat the meat of the pipa. He even cut a little spoon from the side of the pipa for us to get the meat out. The meat is soggy and not sweet, not like how many of us picture pipa. Nonetheless, I think it’s delicious.  We rode our bikes back in the rain drenched from head to toe as were most of our things that we brought with us. 

That night we went to EZ times and had some cocktails that were 2 for one and some dinner. This was going to be our ladies night with Marcella, Erin, Emily, and myself. After a long day the drinks made us nothing but tired. Marcella jokingly asked the waiter if there were any beds. He said yes. And he led us upstairs to a private lounge area with cushioned couches all along the walls and tables in the middle. Emily and I were served our dinners- I got gazpacho with grilled shrimp and avocado and Emily had home-made gnocchi. It was delicious. After eating we joined Erin and Marcella in a nap. Around 9 we woke up and decided to go out as it was our last night in Puerto Viejo.  Erin went back to Rocking J’s as she was still feeling tired. We bar-hopped all over Puerto Viejo and ended back at EZ Times which was now transformed into techno dance party. We danced and partied the night away leaving Puerto Viejo on a good note. 

Our vacation is over. It is time to start working so that we can actually live here. I don't think that I will revisit Puerto Viejo, but I am a firm believer in always visiting somewhere new. I am glad we went and am also glad I have a couple days to relax before we start training. It is time to start learning the language and become more serious about what I want to obtain from my time here. Even so, I am grateful for all my experiences that have led me to exactly where I am now.